Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys.i got a r33 fitted with the rb20e motor.what i want to know howstrong are the diff and sideshafts fitted to this model.are they as strong as the turbo skylines' diffs and sideshafts.how do i know if its a r200 diff.my vin plate says rc4.00 does that mean its a r200 diff.if i want to fit a turbo diff do i need the whole casing or jus the intenals.hope anyone can help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393575-r33-diff-and-driveshaft-strength/
Share on other sites

Don't know about a RB20DE R33, but i'm fairly sure the 25DE and DET diffs/driveshafts are the same?

Few people having trouble with gearboxes on 25DE+T's or high powered RB20DET's, but rarely hear of blown diffs or drive shafts unless it's in BIG power applications.....

Any R200 diff is as strong as any other in the basic aspects (CW&P, centre casting, output halfshafts). In the case of the 2L R33, it's unlikely that the std diff is LSD. And even if it was, VLSDs are pus anyway. Don't look at putting any other centre into your existing housing. Just buy a secondhand mechanical diff already in a housing when you can get one from someone.

I got an R32GTR rear end in my Stagea both for the mechanical LSD and because the 6 x 1 half shafts are thicker than the R33 ones (other advantages are aluminium carriers and twin pot brakes although you will have to change the shocks).

my diff does that.i even done the one wheel up test and itd very hard to turn but when one wheel is on a loose surface like sand and the other on hard surface the one on sand would spin with a light touch on the gas pedal.is that normal for a vlsd

oops sorry man.my diff acts like a lsd.i've jacked up my car n both wheels turn in the same direction.same said to jack up one wheel n if it hard to turn then its a lsd.i've done that test too n its hard to turn the wheel.do viscous lsd work when the wheels turn slow cause when one wheel is on a hard surface n the other on sand the one on sand starts to spin n no power goes to the other wheel

<br />My diff is a piece of shit, limited slip my f**ken ass.<br />
<br /><br /><br />

I've just been driving mine for the first time since putting the helical centre in it. As far as I'm concerned, the VLSD that was in it before was effectively open. I now have to learn to drive the car again, because everything it does is different!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...