Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 2002 V35 gt8 with a fried BCM, when ignition on no headlights or wipers, when ignition off and car locked wipers working and headlight flickering.

Have obtained a new BCM from Nissan but after booking in to get it fitted (waiting a week), and a couple of hours in their service bay to be told that "we can't program it".rant.gif

Contacted another Nissan dealership to be told "We dont do a lot of imports and were not setup to do that sort of thing"

My question is, has anyone had to program one, if you were successful, who and where?cheers.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/
Share on other sites

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Sedan/2003/bcs.pdf

FSM for a 2003 G35 Sedan- Body Control systems

I know its not your car, but might help somewhat... I hate that reply from Stealerships. Couldn't see anything in there that states that it has to be programmed. Chris Rogers would be the person to go to for info. Seems to be the Guru for Nissan electrical eccentricities.

Hope it gets sorted!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6260269
Share on other sites

Ahh- did see something- right at the end.

When replacing BCM perform initialization of NATS system and registration of all NATS ignition key IDs.

Thats the Nissan Anti theft system (NATS), and your key fobs. Should be an easy thing to do through Consult. Tell them exactly what you want at the dealership- then watch them embarrass themselves. They might get it right too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6260278
Share on other sites

They don't want to listen to what I say, they know best, thats why the have that logo out the front, which also matches the one on their shirt.

I have already embarrassed the service manager there already when I took my car down their to get the consult put on it to test the BCM. He didn't want to do it saying that "I don't want to hook it up for half an hour and have to charge you $50 and have no result"

He eventually conceded and hooked it up, when returning the car to me with the printout, showing a fault in the ABS that cleared straight away and one in the TCU which wouldn't clear, I asked how much, he replied "don't worry about it" choking on humble piesick.gif.

Fault with TCU was a brake switch fault. Nissan response "we don't know where that is, on the outside, on the inside, we have no manual"

Contacted CVT.CO.NZ and the first line that I got back in response was "They don't know what the are doing", there is no brake switch on the gearbox.whistling.gif

This is the kind of "expertise" I have to deal with when I go near the place, they get upset when you tell them they are wrong, bitch up when you prove that they are wrong, then they bullsh*t you till you walk away holding your head, IN PAIN.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6260791
Share on other sites

What Nissan dealer did u goto?

They don't want to listen to what I say, they know best, thats why the have that logo out the front, which also matches the one on their shirt.

I have already embarrassed the service manager there already when I took my car down their to get the consult put on it to test the BCM. He didn't want to do it saying that "I don't want to hook it up for half an hour and have to charge you $50 and have no result"

He eventually conceded and hooked it up, when returning the car to me with the printout, showing a fault in the ABS that cleared straight away and one in the TCU which wouldn't clear, I asked how much, he replied "don't worry about it" choking on humble piesick.gif.

Fault with TCU was a brake switch fault. Nissan response "we don't know where that is, on the outside, on the inside, we have no manual"

Contacted CVT.CO.NZ and the first line that I got back in response was "They don't know what the are doing", there is no brake switch on the gearbox.whistling.gif

This is the kind of "expertise" I have to deal with when I go near the place, they get upset when you tell them they are wrong, bitch up when you prove that they are wrong, then they bullsh*t you till you walk away holding your head, IN PAIN.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6261203
Share on other sites

whilst I have a scan tool that can read these cars and program keys to them the main point of it is the immobiliser codes.

if you do not have those then you are wasting your money. you need to see someone with a C2, C3, carmen scan OR a launch X431 full size unit. all of them will recode the car but with out the imobiliser code you are pretty much screwed. nissan are the only ones that can do that. sending an email to nissan japan is OUT as they will refer it back to nissan oz. FTG nissan would be my pick of the dealers. they do GTR and seemed quite helpful when I took imports there for key work.

start there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6261387
Share on other sites

http://www.nicoclub....an/2003/bcs.pdf

FSM for a 2003 G35 Sedan- Body Control systems

I know its not your car, but might help somewhat... I hate that reply from Stealerships. Couldn't see anything in there that states that it has to be programmed. Chris Rogers would be the person to go to for info. Seems to be the Guru for Nissan electrical eccentricities.

Hope it gets sorted!

that is 'close' but not the same as the keys are different and they run an external calsonic remote fob.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6261393
Share on other sites

whilst I have a scan tool that can read these cars and program keys to them the main point of it is the immobiliser codes.

if you do not have those then you are wasting your money. you need to see someone with a C2, C3, carmen scan OR a launch X431 full size unit. all of them will recode the car but with out the imobiliser code you are pretty much screwed. nissan are the only ones that can do that.

So the Consult units will allow for a recode but only with an immobiliser code as well. I'm guessing what makes Nissan capable of performing it regardless is the fact that they have the immobiliser security card which does not require the original codes to allow for this. Would I be right in saying that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6263541
Share on other sites

So the Consult units will allow for a recode but only with an immobiliser code as well.

Correct.

I'm guessing what makes Nissan capable of performing it regardless is the fact that they have a way to derive immobiliser security card which does not require the original codes to allow for this. Would I be right in saying that?

corrected for future reading.

nissan can look up ( and they have done so for me.) the codes but they NEED the car to look it up.

finding a dealership to help isnt too bad BUT if you come across like a d1ck telling them you know everything about your car (and they know nothing ) then expect to be blown off.

not saying thats what the OP did but it does happen.

I seem to remember a key code program floating about that did the calc off a checksum. may be worth having a dig on this forum for it under spare keys.

you will STILL need a C2/C3 to do it. my diagun will program certain aspects of it but a C2/C3 is a FAR better option.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6263817
Share on other sites

I see. I was preparing myself for the worst, thinking perhaps the Fly Company in China with their Consult 4 unit and security cards would be the failsafe for me in case if I didn't get any co-operation out of my local dealers. I did get a tiny little metal tag attached to my transponder key which has 5 digits stamped into it. After doing some reading up on NATS and the various incarnations of it, I think that could be my immobiliser code so I'm glad I made a point of keeping everything that came with my V36 recently in a safe place.

Thanks for the prompt response, as always!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393601-v35-bcm/#findComment-6264150
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...