Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think these are the specs for the brake rotors:

R34 GT : 296mm x 30mm (4 pot sumitomo caliper)

R34 GTT : 310mm x 30mm (4 pot sumitomo caliper)

So since the rotors are larger on the GTT, it will take a higher heat range hence you can brake harder for longer.

Looking at the Project MU website for brake pads they all take the same part number (E236) = Wide: 119.2mm.

Thanks for the info dude though I don't have GTR kind of cash on hand right now haha.

so I can just take the whole thing off a gtt right ? and have no problems fitting to my N/A ?

kind of a N00B with this stuff for now

Again Thanks

Thanks for the info dude though I don't have GTR kind of cash on hand right now haha.

:)

Just to give you an idea, cheapest I have found so far is $1500 for a whole set (R34 GTR full set)

You just want to change front? Or do the rears as well?

A full caliper set for the R34 GTT, is around the $500 mark.

so I can just take the whole thing off a gtt right ? and have no problems fitting to my N/A ?

kind of a N00B with this stuff for now

Again Thanks

I recently did a Brembo upgrade on my R32 (front)

They were off a R32 GTR V-Spec and everything bolted straight up, except the stone guards.

Due to the rotors being larger, you either flatten out the top rim or cut it off to fit the larger rotors.

The rest should be a straight fit.

I believe it will be a similar process with the R34 GT and R34 GTT caliper kits.

So where the calipers bolt in / where the rotors slot in / where the brake lines screw in, all should be the same.

Flatten out or cut off stone guards.

What you will need is:

R34 GTT Calipers

New Brake Pads: 119.2mm

New Rotors: 310mm x 30mm

I would buy a new set of metal braided brake hose lines too. HEL make braided lines and you can pick up a set (front and rear) starting from $130+

I would also get the R34 GTT calipers reconditioned to play it safe.

Also double check with your mechanic as well.

Also check how much clearance you have with your wheels.

Judging from the wheels in your avatar pic, you should be fine as GTT Calipers are not huge compared to GT Calipers, might be slightly bigger.

Also the rotors are not massive as you are only going up 14mm in diametre size.

But keep it in mind, should be all good.

Your a smart man^ and I was hoping to do I full upgrade though I am a little low on cash right now after getting the cf Z-tune bonnet .

Now I just have to hunt down the goodies I will be needing and see what this will set me back . Now you say rotors are 310mm is this just the front the back ones would be a lil smaller right 297mm ??

Mind if I ask where is a good place to get Rotors/Calipers from ?

Many Thanks Adrian

Ok from what I see in them posts ^ I guess I do have 14mm bolt holes and if not ill just get them drilled 2mm as I really do want the gtt setup

A lot of bull shit going around about the whole N/a 34 brake upgrades though haha..

Just had a look at my car today (been under a cover few days) and I have 2 NEW small dints on my god dam door

kind of odd when i have not been anywhere.....

Just looking over eBay and I got to thinking what if I was to get new "Slotted" Rotors for the N/a r34 like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SLOTTED-Nissan-Skyline-R34-NON-TURBO-Front-RDA-Disc-Brake-Rotors-NEW-PAIR-/110834215702?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ce3beb16#ht_1595wt_1004

same size as stock I know but it should in its self be a ok upgrade with new pads (green stuff or whatever)

Edited by joker's r34

Your a smart man^ and I was hoping to do I full upgrade though I am a little low on cash right now after getting the cf Z-tune bonnet .

Now I just have to hunt down the goodies I will be needing and see what this will set me back . Now you say rotors are 310mm is this just the front the back ones would be a lil smaller right 297mm ??

Mind if I ask where is a good place to get Rotors/Calipers from ?

Many Thanks Adrian

All good :D

That's right Only the fronts are larger.

I am using DBA Rotors at the moment.

Many will suggest RDA Rotors and EBC Brake Pads.

Project MU is worth taking a look for Rotors and Brake Pads.

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/

http://www.dba.com.au/

http://rdabrakes.com.au/index.php/products.html

To get the calipers, either search the For Sale Thread on SAU, ask Aaron from Import Monster (SAU Trader) or give Nissan the Part Number to see if they can order it in for you.

Don't bother with 2nd hand rotors and pads, they are priced quiet well for a brand new item.

With 2nd calipers, get your mechanic to recondition them, it won't cost that much.

Just looking over eBay and I got to thinking what if I was to get new "Slotted" Rotors for the N/a r34 like this http://www.ebay.com....#ht_1595wt_1004

same size as stock I know but it should in its self be a ok upgrade with new pads (green stuff or whatever)

Project MU / DBA / RDA will all make a slotted rotor.

Green Stuff us made by EBC, it would suite the needs if you car is on a street sports level / spirited driving.

If you want something a tad more aggressive, get Red Stuff.

Due to the rotors being larger, you either flatten out the top rim or cut it off to fit the larger rotors.

The rest should be a straight fit.

I believe it will be a similar process with the R34 GT and R34 GTT caliper kits.

^^^

Exactly right, i have 34 gtt brakes in my car. thats all you need to do.

only thing you'll run into is that the banjo bolts which u will take from your na brakes (because gtt uses a steel pipe which connects to the banjo bolt, which therefore means u can't use it) will be a tad too long, so either source a slightly shorter bolt (which u may find very difficult) or stuff a copper washer behind each side of the bolt.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 years later...

Digging up an old thread but here is some additional info for any future readers...

I found the CHEAPEST upgrade for R34 GT with 280mm front discs is to use S14/S15 200SX (Silvia) turbo calipers.

The Silvia calipers are 4 pot type with Nissan written on the side. The mounting bolts and brake fluid lines bolt straight up so there is no need to change anything else.

I got a pair of calipers at a wreckers for $100 and a new set of Bendix pads for $60.

Obviously bigger discs and calipers are better, but this is a really easy and cheap upgrade anyone can do.

IMG_20170821_140551494-w.jpg

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...