Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Firstly, ive read some of the threads on here about boost creep but i thought i'd share whats going on with my setup, and if anyone has any ideas/thoughts.

I have a HyperGear ATR43G3 internally gated turbo fitted to my R33 GTS-t, currently with a 14psi actuator on it. It see's 20-22 psi everytime with the actuator being fed straight from the plenum (bypassing the HKS EVC-S).

I havent pressure tested the line, but im almost 100% the vac line isnt leaking (fairly heavy duty stuff and a yr old or so).

Has a 3in bellmouth dump pipe to decat, then 3 1/2 to tip.

The actuator does push the wastegate arm, tested this by pumping some compressed air through the actuator line. the actuator arm is very loose and free.

The car is running a ViPec V44, and is actually tuned on 20psi. (Previous 18psi actuator wouldnt go below 22psi unless i put almost no pre-load on the actuator arm, which then caused it to creack open early)

Ive read that running rich and advanced timing can have an effect on overboosting. Apparently my timing and fuel maps are about double of what they should be..

My problem is the wastegate leaks if it doesnt have enough pre-load on the arm. Which im not able to do otherwise it spikes to 25+psi.

I just want to get atleast 15-16psi without the wastegate opening early, and then use my EBC to sort the rest out.

Car is going in for another tune on thursday so maybe ill see how they go when they cut some fuel and timing out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/394549-major-boost-creep/
Share on other sites

Im told it is 1 bar. Sarge what boost are you running now? And does it hold steadily or drop off in the top end? Cheers.

I run 13 to 14psi low boost(all actuator with some gain to keep the line flat). High boost is 18 to 19psi. I'll get you my dyno graph, low boost is perfect, high boost tapers of up top but this could potentially be changed with some settings or a boost controller capable of controlling boost at x rpm.

As far as what I know when they did my PU high flow

I had the stock actuator that run on 7psi that tappered off to about 14psi with boost controller

Their 14psi actuator that held about 15psi with no boost controller and tappered off to 17psi with boost controller

Also their 20psi actuator that held 19psi flate to red line with no boost controller (That was the best) .

The 20psi far as I know is what they use as default.

How come we only hear of people with actuator/boost problems on Hypergear turbos and not Garrets or others??

Thats the first ever case on a G3 I've ever seen.

Those turbine housings runs a 32mm internal gate port with a 36mm wastegate disc. Thats what we port the internal gate to on the Garrett turbine housings to when we rebuild or high flow their turbos. (mainly xr6 3582).

wg.jpg

That gate can not be ported any larger as thats all the diameter there is before breaking into the walls. That can not be the cause.

Check the wasetgate assembly to see if its operational by shooting pressure into it from the compressor. Of it is then check vacuum source. or see if the actuator it self is operating of so make sure the rod is not fouling on the bracket.

Three things...

1. Do you have an adjustable actuator rod? whats your pre-tension like?

2. Try disconnecting the actuator rod and go for a drive, go WOT at high revs, 3rd gear. see if you make any sort of boost. If you make any more than 5psi then you've got a wastegate problem. The car shouldn't make more than a few pounds of boost on a correct turbo / rear housing / engine size combo.

3. Which rear housing do you have?

FWIW I had a genuine garrett 2860rs, had boost creep problems with the .64 housing, and not with the .86 (turbo was too small for a 2.5l though...)

Yes the rod is adjustable, putting 4mm preload on and it goes up to 22psi. Now with 2mm its still going up to 22psi. Last week I also undid and tied the wastegate arm to the fully open position and it made 11psi in 3rd gear. Im not sure what size rear housing it has to be honest

Edited by LANDSCRIBBLE

Yes the rod is adjustable, putting 4mm preload on and it goes up to 22psi. Now with 2mm its still going up to 22psi. Last week I also undid and tied the wastegate arm to the fully open position and it made 11psi in 3rd gear.

You've found the source of your problem... With the wastegate flap wide open it still makes 11psi. Your target is boost 14 on the actuator, + 11 from the boost creep = 25, that's not far off your 22psi that you see... That's where your extra boost is coming from! Rule out the actuator and/or boost control, I reckon your rear housing is too small.

They run pretty large .82 rear housing. That actuator has been tested already, I delt it has some thing to do with the actuator or the wastegate assembly as there would be couple of hundred people here with the same issue. Try a different boost source and see if that makes any differences as I found it strange as the sping load made no difference in your car.

Your target is boost 14 on the actuator, + 11 from the boost creep = 25, that's not far off your 22psi that you see... That's where your extra boost is coming from!

thats not how it works....

try running no pre load (actuator only just holds gate shut with no pressure) and make sure it can swing all the way open when pressurised. then make sure you have a dedicated line directly from a boost source to the actuator and see what you get.

thats not how it works....

try running no pre load (actuator only just holds gate shut with no pressure) and make sure it can swing all the way open when pressurised. then make sure you have a dedicated line directly from a boost source to the actuator and see what you get.

I will try that (also recommended by Stao), other 2 things i've done.

I've attached a picture here and was wondering what you guys think. Im thinking maybe it is leaking air from somewhere when its hitting boost. but theres so many places that are able to leak from. (BOV is blocked off)

Is the boost source where it is on the plenum a good spot? Or should i get a nipple tapped/welded right after the turbo somewhere?

Thanks everyone for the input!

post-67952-0-92029100-1331631346_thumb.jpg

where does the hose from the t/b go? i cant remember. the bigger hose to the right is for idle air. dont block that bov hose unless its leaking.

boost source is fine, wouldnt hurt to pressure test the hose to make sure it doesnt leak though. your boost gauge will be reading off the manifold too, so if your overboosting according to that then boost leaks before the manifold arent the cause.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...