Installing A New Radiator

[jjman]

So the extremes pf Perth weather seems to be too much for my stock radiator (f**ker is probably blocking up again like they do on R33's etc...)

So i have purchased a new 52mm aluminium radiator to go in it.

My question is, should i have the block etc cooling system pressure/reverse flushed before i put the new radiator on or would that be overkill?

Just a bit concerned that i might have a buildup of sediment throught the cooling channels in the motor (also contributing to its tendency to get too hot), also that in the future there might be shit to dislodge and then end up starting the blocking process in my new radiator...

then again, changing a radiator is a job i can do free of charge, the alternative is paying a workshop to exchange the radiators and do the flush at the time which i wouldnt mind avoiding if its possible (and unneccessary)...

thoughts/ experience?

[260tech]

  On 13/03/2012 at 8:52 AM, jjman said:

So the extremes pf Perth weather seems to be too much for my stock radiator (f**ker is probably blocking up again like they do on R33's etc...)

So i have purchased a new 52mm aluminium radiator to go in it.

My question is, should i have the block etc cooling system pressure/reverse flushed before i put the new radiator on or would that be overkill?

Just a bit concerned that i might have a buildup of sediment throught the cooling channels in the motor (also contributing to its tendency to get too hot), also that in the future there might be shit to dislodge and then end up starting the blocking process in my new radiator...

then again, changing a radiator is a job i can do free of charge, the alternative is paying a workshop to exchange the radiators and do the flush at the time which i wouldnt mind avoiding if its possible (and unneccessary)...

thoughts/ experience?

My thoughts. Any crap in the block is gunna end up in the new shiny radiator if you do not flush the said crap out. Up to you.

Cheers GW

[XKLABA]

drop the the plug at the back of the block on the passenger side, it is the water drop plug for the block, then fill it up and repeat till your happy all the crap is out

[jjman]

Ah ok, so if I drop that plug n then blast a hose into the system thru the top hose should flush it pretty good?

Sufficiently u think?

[The Bogan]

Get a "TEFBA" filter, I use one and it stops heaps of old crap, clean it once a week and your good to go.

Easy as.

[jjman]

Ok ill look into one of those.

Any more opinions on now effective flushing the motor will be with a hose n opening that back drain plug?

[TTT]

Replace thermostat and radiator cap with OEM stuff from nissan while you are at it.

they are about $30 and $20 respectively.

oh and good luck getting that drain bolt off the block..

[jjman]

Already done

yeah im pretty good with bolts n my mate has a 4 point hoist so should be able to get at it ok...

  On 14/03/2012 at 1:17 AM, GTST said:

Replace thermostat and radiator cap with OEM stuff from nissan while you are at it.

they are about $30 and $20 respectively.

oh and good luck getting that drain bolt off the block..

[jhjones]

Don't forget to do the heater core aswell. Also put the hose in both front radiator hoses plus the two from the heater to the engine. Keep repeating till the water is coming out clear.

[jjman]

how would i do the bottom hose? the thermostat will be closed n block any water coming out no?

i was planning on sealing the garden hose onto the top radiator hose n just blasting it until what comes out the drain plug looks clean....

shall i run the car at the same time n turn on the heater to open the heater core?

  On 14/03/2012 at 4:49 AM, H4x said:

Don't forget to do the heater core aswell. Also put the hose in both front radiator hoses plus the two from the heater to the engine. Keep repeating till the water is coming out clear.

[jhjones]

Yeah, my thermostat must be stuffed then. I wouldn't run the car while flushing and I'd let it cool right down before flushing because of the sudden temperature changes.

[jjman]

yeah i was figuring on having the car dead cold n starting the flush that way n then starting it after a while n turning on the heater to flush the core out.

Prob only run it for 60 secs like that...

shouldnt cause any probs should it?

[jhjones]

Don't know. You can flush the heater with the car off, just set the climate control to 32 degrees and run the hose into it.

[jjman]

ah yep.

goood point. Cheers.

my only other concern in this process is that am i likely to dislodge some crud in the system that could lodge in the turbo's coolant supply?

(my nice new HKS turbo that i want to life a long and healthy life...)

[gotRICE?]

Take the coolant feed off the turbo?

[nicr4wks]

I've recently done mine..

Took the thermostat out first, disconnected top and bottom hoses from the rad.

Flushed water through the top hose until the bottom flowed clear, then flushed through the bottom hose until the top flowed clear, then did t all again.

Disconnected hoses from the heater at the firewall, flushed the heater core both ways, then flushed through both of the heater hoses as well, then went back to the top hose and did it all again twice.

Drained the water out, blew through all hoses to try and get more out, blew through the heater core to get the water out.

[jjman]

yeah seems like the comprehensive way to do it.

Tho i just did the thermostat so dont really want to pull that whole job apart again just to flush... guddammit

will defaintely do the heater core flush though n out the back of the motor from the drain plug.

might sus it on the day as to how patient im feeling n whether to get the thermostat out n flush right down to there.

might just put in a TEFBA filter n be done with it that way...

  On 18/03/2012 at 12:45 AM, nicr4wks said:

I've recently done mine..

Took the thermostat out first, disconnected top and bottom hoses from the rad.

Flushed water through the top hose until the bottom flowed clear, then flushed through the bottom hose until the top flowed clear, then did t all again.

Disconnected hoses from the heater at the firewall, flushed the heater core both ways, then flushed through both of the heater hoses as well, then went back to the top hose and did it all again twice.

Drained the water out, blew through all hoses to try and get more out, blew through the heater core to get the water out.

Edited March 20, 2012 by jjman

[gotRICE?]

the thermostat is only three bolts ya lazy bugger If your good you can do it with out taking off any hoses lol.

[jjman]

yeah but its a brand new one in there n also all of the gasket sealant job which is all working perfectly.

If i get in there something might f*k up n ill be dealing with something else...

But ur right, ill prob just have to man up on it

  On 20/03/2012 at 6:27 AM, gotRICE? said:

the thermostat is only three bolts ya lazy bugger If your good you can do it with out taking off any hoses lol.

[gotRICE?]

Lol iv never used gasket goo on any thermostat on any car ive ever owned. And just recently did the RB25.

Never had a leak. So i guess in my case its easier ha.

Bus seriously, unless you drain the block and all matter of gunk falls out with the coolant, just flush it as per normal. There wont be a much in there. I think some people are just far too pedantic about it. Its been mentioned before, Skylines arent some mystical creature that needs any extra special procedures for general maintenance

As a precaution, just flush it without the radiator plumbed in so your shiny new rad doesnt get anything unwanted in it.