Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been running these Federal 595 SS tyres for a while on my R32 GTR. In the dry they aren't too bad, although they aren't amazing, but in the wet I feel like I'm driving on ice. Even minor acceleration around a round about and I'm understeering towards the gutter. The back end can be a little skittish too, but that is quickly corrected by the 4wd sending power to the front, which then makes it under steer like crazy. The tyres it had on previously were no name chinese tyres, so I'm not really sure if I'm expecting too much of it. I plan to take it in for a wheel alignment this week.

Has anyone else had experience with these tyres and found them ghastly?

Would the Kumho KU31 be any better?

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

nothing wrong with 595ss, unless you drive like a tool they should be totally fine for driving around streets

sounds like your wheel alignment to be honest, they have been fine for me in the wet

havent seen any difference between them and the bridgestone RE001`s i had on my old car (cost a lot more than $20-$30 extra)

the people with lots of money to burn will tell you to spend a lot, but in reality they are as good or better than lot of more expensive brand tyres

you probably need some more camber if youre understeering

I've got no problem spending an extra $20-30 a corner, but it is a bit stupid to say that without giving some examples of better tires for that amount of money. I'm not going to go a spend a few hundred per corner, I don't drive my car hard enough to warrant it. It is my daily driver to and from work. I just expect to be able to drive around a round about without heading for the gutter even at very low speeds. It has been a problem since them were put on the car, perhaps the tyre shop hasn't been doing a very good job at wheel alignments.

Yeah they must have done something with the wheel alignment, when i say light acceleration makes it understeer, I'm talking abou the slightest pressure on the pedal. Well I'll get it into a proper suspension shop and get them to check it out. Next time I'll spend a little more on the tyres.

595ss/KU31 - same boat really. Both are not a decent performance tyre so you'll be making compromises.

Depends what you want, and what your budget is.

You would always drive slower in the wet around round-a-bouts, most people do that.

Way i see it if you cant control a car driving normally on tge street with average tyres you shouldnt have a licencse its not like your tsking at 200kms on the street snd in the wet shoild always be extra cautious. Btw im not personally aiming this at OP saying this is hes case just generslly saying.

Adjusting just camber , will help a little !

but you should be maxing the toe as well it should corner unbelievably but will cause tyre wear , but its well worth it ,

i run Ventus Hankook RS -3 tyre

Way i see it if you cant control a car driving normally on tge street with average tyres you shouldnt have a licencse its not like your tsking at 200kms on the street snd in the wet shoild always be extra cautious. Btw im not personally aiming this at OP saying this is hes case just generslly saying.

What do you do when some half drunk ass hole steps out in front of you, or a car pulls out infront of you?

That the way I see it

What do you do when some half drunk ass hole steps out in front of you, or a car pulls out infront of you?

That the way I see it

Unless your speeding or doing something wrong you shouldn't really need special expensive tyres to stop in time.

im running them now, they're ok for $120 fitted in 235/40/18.

experience some minor understeer in the wet, might be related to my wheel alignment tho as it had the same feeling with toyo proxes 4 as well.

in the dry they are decent.

I'm running -3.5 front and -2 rear camber, Hankook ventus RS 3, 255/40 17.

I have no understeer on the street wet or dry.

Cheap hard tyres are fine for shopping trolleys or doing skids.

Tyres cost $125 a piece from tire rack.$730 delivered.

Why do people buy sporty style cars and then go pov on the most important part.

595SS's aren't the greatest but they're alright bang-for-buck, I have run them as daily tyres on all my cars for a few years and have never had issues like the OP has mentioned.. even in my stiffly sprung, low, 2-way'd, 3L'd R32 GTSt.. even in the 2t Wagoon of Hillariousness, no crazy understeer issues :blink:

What's up with your alignment settings OP?

Unless your speeding or doing something wrong you shouldn't really need special expensive tyres to stop in time.

Whut? :blink:

I agree with Zebra. I run Toyo Proxes R1Rs because who knows what might happen no matter how awesome I am.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...