Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I have a R32 GTS-T with these mods; twin front pipe, catback exhaust, fmic, pod and soon will put on a RB25 turbo. Looking at computers now. But until I buy a ecu and tune the car, with these mods when is the time to upgrade to a bigger fuel pump and injectors?

My guess is the second hand pump is exactly that 2nd hand.

For the price of a new pump these days $160-$200 direct replacement why going 2nd hand?

Also its the life source of the car without fuel you will lean out and do more damage then $200 for a pump

Why not, I got a s/h tomei and its brilliant

Thats different in a way. Its more than likely not that old.

But still i would definately prefer not to use 2nd hand fuel pumps.

I knew op was going to say a 2nd hand GTR pump.

With most things that run in fuel, once they are removed they dry up, seals swell etc etc.

since you guys are talking fuel pumps, whats the limit of power for walbro 255L/h and 555nismo's on pump98?:whistling:

Pretty sure thay nicked named them Walbro 500, as in 500HP.

Basically they are generally good to 300+ wkw in most applications. Ive seen so many cars putting that power figure out, and more with only a single in tank pump.

Cant comment on Nismos one.

I brought a genuine walbro for 130 they come around cheap sometimes keep an eye out. Dont buy second hand, its not worth it when your chasing power increases.

Heres a mean set-up my mates put in is R32.4, 1200HP SX pump to keep his 420wkw gtr fed :D

post-89260-0-00153000-1332153107_thumb.jpg

Edited by HYBR3D

Nismo will do 400rwkw

Walbro - anyone's guess. They are very hit and miss. Mine nosed over @ 270rwkw, others have run into issues at less, some have made more. Gamble you take really. Walbro's from their own information - don't like higher pressures like a Bosch/Nismo etc perform ok.

In engineering is a term called B.S.F.C

(Brake Specific Fuel Consumption)

You could use this caculator to give you an idea about fuel requirements for injectors and pump.

http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...