Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So had a quiet day at work today and luckily the boss went home early morning. So i ended up finishing spraying the cage in the 'Plumb Purple' looks pretty schmick. I also touched up the floor with some matte black including the harnes eyelets. Then bolted the GTR seats into place. Then ran the harness as required on both sides. Adjusted mine up took a few goes and just need the mrs to sit on her side to adjust hers. They feel good and weird at the same time as ive never had proper racing harnesses in a car ive driven before. Also got the bonnet pins mounted and secured properly in the radiator support. Just need some rubber spaces to remove the free play in the pin itself. So heres a few picks. Now just saving for front rear screens and sunroof insert. Then shes ready for racing :)

cage_zps3cffe9ad.jpg

cage2_zpsc34e6042.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

So finaly a small update. Wired up the AFR meter to the new 02 sensor. And found a small cheap china spec POD filter that fits where i need it to. With the headlight removed and carbon funnel put there will be good enough. Picking up a full cat back exhaust friday to make it legal for texi days. And saving for windows which should be next month or so.

IMG_1480_zpsa286e395.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

So received a nice box in the mail yesterday. A 12" thermo fan. Having already wired in a relay and switch ages ago it was a simple task of mounting it to the radiator and connecting 2 wires. Presto the fan is alive. Seems to move a solid amount of air which should be more then enough for those track days ;)

Also got a nice used 3" exhaust brought to my house for a cheap price. Its cat back full system, beat up but will do the job perfectly. Dont have picks of it yet as it needs to be modified so i will be able to un bolt the side pipe where the cat would normally sit and attach the full system to make it a nice 2 bolt on off 5 min job. My original exhaust hangers are all still in tact along with all the D rubbers :)

Update to come shortly with picks of exhaust before and after :)

fan_zps211e5aa4.jpg

Big red is main ISO switch, from left to right, Fuel Pump, Alternator Power, Thermo Fan. As the original wiring of the car was altered when i brought it to run the battery in the boot for some reason the signal wire for the alternator wasnt working so i just wired in a new one with a switch. The custom fuse box runs all the switch power, gauges, thermo power ect, along with running the standard 32 fuse boxes. Rear of car is custom wired by me as I had no normal rear harness.

  • 3 weeks later...

So update-

Exhaust has been modified now so a full system can run with a muffler and a cannon out the back 3 1/2 inch. Now all thats required is to unbolt the 3 bolt flange and swap the full system for the side pipe. Now she just needs window glass and i can take her out on track. Not bad going from a rolling shell to full car in under 12 months.

If you want to be able to swap your exhaust out really quickly, use what is called a tri clover. Basically like a v band clamp, but it does up with a wing nut, so you dont even need a spanner or ratchet.

Have one on my R32 GTR so for track days i can swap it out in under 5mins at the track if need be for some straight through goodness.

MMMMM straight through goodness lol. Ill keep it in mind ;)

So big update, well not really just picks. Plumbed up the catch can properly, ordered the windows off FATZ so they will be coming and be installed on monday :) She will look like a new car with glass in the rear and a non smashed front screen. Decided will attempt to plexi the quarters and sunroof. Cant wait to see what it looks like. Then shes ready to go! Also installed second hand dash cluster. Purely for the RPM. The dash lights work. Tacho works. Speedo needs the drive in the RB25 box modified. Fuel gauge, oil pressure and boost not working as the rear harness is only a 7 core trailer wire i did myself and using aftermarket oil pressure gauge. But makes the interior look complete. Needs door trims as well.

Here's some recent picks of exhaust and engine. Please not the catch can lines have now been secured with a single U clamp to the RH T belt bolt area. So holds them down off the bonnet :)

zorst_zpsd64a6705.jpg

catch_zpse8a21270.jpg

1013382_10152973788185521_995750091_n_zp

Ah just the stocker. I couldnt rape his old beast to much lol. Ive already grabbed the harnesses and now the rear window lol. Pretty sure im gonna have to give him a free sponsor spot on my car cause half the stuff in it is from him :P

Yah the entire front end is pretty much from fatz. Intercooler, Front bar, Lights, blinkers, radiator, front glass, rear glass, bar support front, carbon style grille, both harnesses. So yah lol a fair bit of money has gone his way ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...