Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you are planning on getting the car & modding it, id suggest u dont. I was in the same boat as u. Almost bought a N/A skyline 3 times but I took ppl's advice & I waited to get off my P's coz if i got it I would have thrown lots of money at it & then bought a turbo when i got my opens anyways.

Just my 2 cents.

Of course you were. You were in an NA R34

  • Replies 138
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

If I had to pick a cheap N/A car it would be what I had when I was on my p's a ford laser ke tx3 all it had was extractors, some 14" meshies, and two seats everything else was stripped the f**k out my missus hated it shopping would go everywhere but I sure had fun rallying it though the bush every Arvo after work and only paid $300 bucks with rego.

The shit boxs are the most fun IMO ended up getting side swiped by some dog drink driving.

^ true, my shitbox was a 700 dollar 91 sexcel with chrome hubcaps and a flower on the keychain and alot of other girly accessories, but it was actually a ton of fun.

Kinda miss it lol no power steering was fun.

^ true, my shitbox was a 700 dollar 91 sexcel with chrome hubcaps and a flower on the keychain and alot of other girly accessories, but it was actually a ton of fun.

Kinda miss it lol no power steering was fun.

Had one of those aswell was my missus car but she didn't have her licence so I ended up having it went rallying one night with a mate and reversed it through a gate at peak revs lol the gate did not budge :(

that tells most of the story, but not all of it. how an engine delivers it's power will give a better indication of how fast it will be. plus gear ratios. for example, if a commodore had gear ratios similar to those of a skyline then they would give even mild turbo skiylines a bit of a scare because of the amount of low down power they produce compared to small engined turbo cars. they would also be a nightmare to launch without a ploom of tyre smoke.

we should also mention that all the weights and power figures are wrong.

we should also mention that all the weights and power figures are wrong.

Ummm, no, no they are not. Unless, of course, you know better than the factories who built them.

S15 - 120Kw 1200kg - factory figures

VY Commonwhore - 1522kg - 152kw - factory figures

R34 coupe - 140kw or 147kw - turbo is 1410kg so I did take a stab and estimate around 1350kg and used Wikipedia for the power.

So, apart from the R34, the spec are correct and I think it's fair to say the R34 specs are pretty damn close to correct.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
×
×
  • Create New...