Jump to content
SAU Community

How Much Power Can An Internally Stock 25 Take?

kawasakirider
 Share

Recommended Posts

kawasakirider Grand Master

kawasakirider

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey everyone, I went for a spin in a 33 on Friday. The bloke is selling it, but isn't in a rush and is happy to wait for me. He told me it has 280RWKW, it was definitely fast but I don't have anything to compare it to, I've only been in a few cars that had over 200rwhp, this thing made them feel slow as. I had only just met him and didn't know if he was a capable driver or not, so it scared the F out of me, hahaha..

Here's what it has (from memory, I don't know all of it)...

T04Z turbo

80mm throttle body

3.5" catback with high flow cat

I dunno the specs of the front mount

Forward facing plenum (looks like a greddy but it's a cheapo), the guy was honest in saying that it's an ebay one, he reckons he hasn't had a drama with it

I didn't ask about the fuel system, like injectors or pump, idk how much the stock system can flow, so I can't make an assumption about that.

He didn't say if it was internally stock or not, but if it was built I'm sure he would have mentioned it, so I'm going to assume it's stock.

I don't know what boost control set up he had, but it had a couple of brass dials on it and he could switch it on the fly, the maximum setting was 16 pounds but he said it spikes to 18 but never anymore than that. Is this dangerous, and is there a risk of it spiking more than that?

Other than that, here is what the car has...

170xxx km's

The interior is as clean as a whistle and it rides extremely smooth, not a single rattle in it.

Hicas lock bar

Volk rims (not sure what type)

Tein adjustables

Has a body kit and a stock front bar, has a nismo front bar with a bit of damage included.

Has a bit of paint missing on the roof about the size of a 50 cent piece, fixed up with white out (lol) no rust.

Small bit of rust on the passenger door, a bubble line about 4-5 cm long

The driver side door has a dent coming from the inside out that you can't really see, the only giveaway is the paint has cracked. Apparently the window winder came off the rail and smacked into it.

The deal is a kawasaki of mine plus 5 grand, the car will come with 6 months rego, a roadworthy, a new clutch and two new tyres on the back, plus the inclusions like the front bar and that.

I'm pretty keen, I don't want to jump into it if it is going to prove to be a drama though. I think for the price it's a great bargain, the guy is a nice, honest bloke so I trust what he says about the car. He daily drives it 40+ km a day.

What do you guys think? Anything for a skyline newb to look for, anything that doesn't sound kosher?

Thanks in advance.

Edited by kawasakirider
ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

sounds legit...I'd say get a compression test done if your really worried and make sure it still slips into gear without too much effort..

But I think just about every skyline box is a little notchy, they're still a tuff unit..

Other than that RB25s are known to last quite a long time at that power level if kept serviced and 16-18psi isnt really considered alot of boost...

whats the kwaka your trading worth..??

kawasakirider Grand Master

kawasakirider

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey man, thanks for the reply. Uh, the bike I'm trading would probably be worth about 2.5k, it's a 2002 model KX 125, completely rebuilt recently, wiseco top end, hot rods rod kit, new reeds, new fmf exhaust etc. I've got a newer KX250 so the bike isn't a drama. He wanted 8k but is willing to do the bike plus 5 k. I'm planning on buying a 4 stroke in the future anyway, so I think the deal is pretty sweet.

kawasakirider Grand Master

kawasakirider

Posted
  • Author
Posted

LOL @ using a T04Z for 280rwkws @ 18psi

Stay away dude

Can you tell me why man? I'll look up the T04Z later, I'm just on my phone at the moment. Should it be making tons more than that? I haven't seen a dyno sheet, just what he said.

blk94r33 Mentor

blk94r33

Posted
Posted

Can you tell me why man? I'll look up the T04Z later, I'm just on my phone at the moment. Should it be making tons more than that? I haven't seen a dyno sheet, just what he said.

T04Z is rated to ~800 crank hp.

He's making 375 rwhp.

Lots of lag and e-peen size, and good potential later on, but sort of backwards for that power.

Generally, 300rwkw is considered the safe limit if the vehicle is serviced properly.

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

to be fair it was 16psi spiking to 18psi..

its an old turbo, its probably considered retro to use one these days..but retro is cool :laugh:

there is a good chance it maybe hanging off a HKS manifold as well, which are hard to find these days so worth 1000$ itself

also could indicate the car was built years ago and the fact its still running could mean its been reasonably well looked after..

Also its not hard to swap out for a 3076r or something...see if you can get a spec list off the guy or some photos of the engine for us to look at..

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

TO4Z starts working at about 4500rpm on my 3ltr, it would be as laggy as hell I would assume on a stock 25.

It could be a OK car but your better of taking it to a good tuner to have a look at it, it might last a while of it might last a day.

Goodluck.

kawasakirider Grand Master

kawasakirider

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It didn't feel too laggy to me, it wasn't much over 3K before it started to hit really hard.

He said it was on a stock manifold, so no HKS one there.

I'll try to get some pics of the engine bay and stuff, I have a couple of pics of the car. I'll post them up in a little while, just gotta upload them to photobucket.

When the time comes, I'll see if there's anyone experienced on here from SE QLD that would come and offer advice for a carton, haha.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

It didn't feel too laggy to me, it wasn't much over 3K before it started to hit really hard.

He said it was on a stock manifold, so no HKS one there.

I'll try to get some pics of the engine bay and stuff, I have a couple of pics of the car. I'll post them up in a little while, just gotta upload them to photobucket.

When the time comes, I'll see if there's anyone experienced on here from SE QLD that would come and offer advice for a carton, haha.

Definately is NOT a T04Z then

Wrong flange for starters

kawasakirider Grand Master

kawasakirider

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmm ok guys, thanks. If the time comes when I go to seriously look at it, I'll get someone who knows their shit to come with me. I reckon this guy has bought the car and has no idea what is on it. He definitely said it had the stock manifold though, he told me if I changed the manifold it would pick up another 30rwkw.

kawasakirider Grand Master

kawasakirider

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i would not trust 1 word from someone that has that steering wheel cover

Hahaha, there was no cover on the wheel when I was in the car. I think he took pics of that when he had just bought the car himself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • Matt Z
      SAU NSW - Bathurst Run 2025

      By Matt Z · Posted

      🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...