Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Going through and reading pages on pages of info, I'm getting confused...

With basic bolt ones, injectors, exhaust, power fc etc

Which GTR is the quickest straight line? 32 33 or 34?

Does it just come down to the 32 being the lightest? Or does the 34 make up for it being newer etc etc??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396726-gtrs/
Share on other sites

Going through and reading pages on pages of info, I'm getting confused...

With basic bolt ones, injectors, exhaust, power fc etc

Which GTR is the quickest straight line? 32 33 or 34?

Does it just come down to the 32 being the lightest? Or does the 34 make up for it being newer etc etc??

Yes you certainly are confused.

The one with the most power/torque and least weight will win if all other variables are the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396726-gtrs/#findComment-6300690
Share on other sites

No of course kw all being the same etc. But if you bolt the same mods on each of the models you won't get the same torque and kws correct?

Then take weight into account etc??

Lol can't afford a 35 and not keen on a 31...

32 33 or 34

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396726-gtrs/#findComment-6300702
Share on other sites

No of course kw all being the same etc. But if you bolt the same mods on each of the models you won't get the same torque and kws correct?

There is no golden answer other than this:

The one with the most power/torque and least weight will win if all other variables are the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396726-gtrs/#findComment-6300792
Share on other sites

I kno each car would be different car from car even in the same model.

But there must be something like a tune with basic bolt ones a 34 will be quicker or the 32 won't have as many kws but much lighter. So quicker in a straight line and on the track etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396726-gtrs/#findComment-6300811
Share on other sites

this is my personal view on the topic...

if all 3 were brand new and had identical mods done, including supporting mods, they would all end up with about the same power.

if you then gave them all the same power, same gear ratios, same WEIGHT - then they will go as well as either or.

so in the end, engine condition, weight, ratios in no order make up the winning combo assuming power is equal.

k, done. lock.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396726-gtrs/#findComment-6300835
Share on other sites

Yer but do you need more money and parts to make a 32 rb26 put out the same as a r34rb26?

What I'm saying is I spend $2000 on a power fc some injectors and a tune and your saying all 3 models will put

Out roughly the same kws? Etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396726-gtrs/#findComment-6300842
Share on other sites

What's so good about the 33 system?

Exhaust manifolds, aftermarket dumps and front popes are common between all 3 ( except for the O2 sensor bung sizes in the 32 and EGT temp probe in the V Spec and above versions of the 34). It's common knowledge that a 33 GTR cat back will bolt into a 34 with a few minor hanger changes and a bee's dick shorter.

So, where does this magical 30 HP come from?

Wouldn't it also depend if it was a 300 HP car or a 1300 HP car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396726-gtrs/#findComment-6300845
Share on other sites

So, where does this magical 30 HP come from?

The cosmos of course

I kno each car would be different car from car even in the same model.

But there must be something like a tune with basic bolt ones a 34 will be quicker or the 32 won't have as many kws but much lighter. So quicker in a straight line and on the track etc

How?

The R34 is heavier. The R33 is heavier.

So once again....

The one with ... least weight will win if all other variables are the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396726-gtrs/#findComment-6300873
Share on other sites

What's so good about the 33 system?

Exhaust manifolds, aftermarket dumps and front popes are common between all 3 ( except for the O2 sensor bung sizes in the 32 and EGT temp probe in the V Spec and above versions of the 34). It's common knowledge that a 33 GTR cat back will bolt into a 34 with a few minor hanger changes and a bee's dick shorter.

So, where does this magical 30 HP come from?

Wouldn't it also depend if it was a 300 HP car or a 1300 HP car?

L2belessserious

Lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396726-gtrs/#findComment-6300877
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...