Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have a severe ticking noise from a lifter on the intake side.

I researched the entire Internet looking for a service manual for the neo head and none exist in English >.<!

I found in a thread on here the valve clearance is .38mm for intake .5mm for exhaust but today I saw on a sticker on my bonnet In and ex .2mm

I pulled both rockers off today (as I bought both gaskets) and planned to go off the bonnet reading and expected to find 1 clearance out compared to all the others with .2 clearance, measure that shim and bobs your uncle!

Sadly... I put a feeler gauge of .3 through all valves easily! Was questioning if it was a non turbo bonnet with that stamp but it had rb25det on the same sticker. No NEO though, so thought it MAY but highly unlikely is a r33 bonnet.

So last resort so I can actually know what size it's suppose to be I'm asking, has anyone done this job before?? Does anyone know the valve clearance of a R34 GTT RB25DET NEO engine???

Let me just emphasise it is not the same as a 33, it is solid not hydraulic lifters with a NEO head.

Jarrad.

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Oh Jarrad, you come to me for everything else why not this..

You need to be better learned in the ways of the internets as I have an english version on my pc.. the answer for you is in the pic below

valve2.png

there is something wrong there, rb25det neo valve clearance for stock cams are meant to be .20 on both sides

i have done a poncam install on an r34 and all valves were 0.20 before i took the stock cams out (had to reshim to 0.40 or so as per tomei specs), it was a while ago but im fairly certain ! They have half the valve clearance of rb26's hence the lack of ticking like the rb26s

Edited by snozzle

What's your problem?

My R34 Manual which I have on DVD shows the same table as post #2 and if you want to see it with your own eyes you can download it yourself from Paul's website:

http://www.paulr33.com/

The table says .36 for inlet and .53 for exhaust so yes your .3 blade will fit under both.

The clearance for the Neo DE is the same as for the DET.

Well how come snozzle and my bonnet say .2mm???

Yeah I fit a .38 under one but it was tight as. So on the angle I was on that probably would have been right.

When I was doing it I thought f*** this I'm just gunna have to pay someone to do it, (as I live in Newcastle and I was at my folks I need to get home in a few days), so I kinda gave up with it and boxed it up cause I didn't know how long it'd take, (was easier then undoing everything :S) plus we don't have micrometers and no one is open on a public holiday to even try to borrow them, that's if I was willing to take the cam shaft off that day to get the shim off!

So plan B, I'm going home tomorrow and I'm gunna do it without dads help (eeep), so I won't rely on the transport.

But first I wanted to know what clearance is right, it seems the clearance should be .38 but idk why my bonnet says differently :S

And there were no wear marks JEZ, few black marks on them but looked more like just being old, was very smooth to touch

Which cylinder do u think is causing the loud tick?

Can u try disconnecting the suspect cylinder/s coil pack when its running and see if the noise is still audible.

Also try disconnecting the VTC solenoid and see if the noise is still audible

I think it's from the intake side on one of the back valves.

Yeah I can do that, if it's slop in a lifter would disconnecting a cylinder do anything??

Is my vtc solenoid under my timing belt cover??

FOUND THE BASTARD!

1 shim on the intake allows a valve clearance of .63mm!

double the specs!

calling nissan tomorrow, i called them before and they said they should be able to help me out, but i didnt know the size at that time.

anyone know somewhere else i could buy it from in newcaslte if nissan cant get it???

cheers for the help everyone.

not to sure, cam lobes look fine.

and its the 5th cyl, if the shaft was bent youd think 6th would be bad too.

it was noticeable then after the track it got a lot worse, so maybe it started from the first track day then worsened on the second??

no idea as to why, thats what the brilliant minds here are for :D

The likelihood of the camshaft being the cause is quite low. I'd be wondering what could happen to the valve stem or the seat. Closing tolerances are usually easy. They're caused by valve seat recession (most of the time). But opening tolerances are another beast.

well thats good haha. looks like an expensive part with alot of screwing around.

hmm... so the question is, is the valve getting a bit sticky and not going down as easy as it should causing wear,

or, was the valve for some reason, maybe even manufactuer fault, it was out of spec, then with high revs it could of cause chatter in the vavle that over time wore it down?? (probs less likely)

or is the valve not going down low enough?

hmmm, cant think of much more.

or am i talking crap?

what do the geniouses think???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not the first person that's said that about this car lol. A Touring wagon GT in Spark yellow mica would be the dog's danglies 😆 I will keep an eye out for a future purchase for sure. The seats are almost like the OEM Recaros... electric adjustment for fore/aft and tilt movements except reclining.   
    • Yes!! I love these! It's a shame its not the wagon though!   Thank everything that's holy that it doesn't have the interior of the Aussie delivered ones. Those seats are so much nicer.  
    • I'm both sorry and thankful that you do that. 
    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
×
×
  • Create New...