Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Right. I'm wid ya now. Sounds like a mission to change it.

Why after maket diff? What's wrong with the vspec one?

Since putting the Quiafe up the front, the rear is single pegging sometimes. Having so much more grip up the front must be throwing the standard computers into "f**ked if i know whats going on, so i'm just gonna single peg".

Right I understand. I'm assuming quiafe does manufacture a matching rear diff now?

Right I understand. I'm assuming quiafe does not manufacture a matching rear diff now?

Edited by Ants

Right I understand. I'm assuming quiafe does not manufacture a matching rear diff now?

They do. It got released about March. It was a toss up between that or the Nismo. I went the Nismo.

Nissan seem to love randomly swapping between bolt patterns on those shafts

Its farken stupid. Nissan give you new flanges in the box. Whats the point when they dont line up with my original shafts? ARGH!

i have a spare set of non v spec shafts for sale if you get desperate

hihihih shaft!

Thanks Pete. I think Terry has found a set, ill know more later on today. Fkn Nissan Fkn.

Diff is in, clunk clunk, bang, clunk, clunk. Sounds mad :D! Did a whole heap of figure 8's and by the time i got home it's starting to settle down a tad which surprised me. BUT, now my 4WD aint working! What have we missed?

Would getting a matching quaife rear diff have been any easier in hindsight, or would you have always had the issue being that you had v-spec to start with?

Negative. Still need the non homo spec rear housing and shafts. Ill give it a bleed over the weekend.

Stupid v spec. Everything that originally made my car one is now gone apart from the quicker ATTESSA computer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...