Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have recently bought a 33 gtr.

The background to the car is as follows:

The motor was built last year, there is about 19k on the clock.

It has JE forged pistons, race bearings forged rods and heaps of other stuff (I'll post up specs when I get home and look at the paperwork)

Anyway, the engine had a knocking noise at about 3k rpm and up to about 4.5k. I was told the engine had this before and after the rebuild. It appears to come from the head.

After driving through the hills I was heading p to a corner and upon increasing rpm the engine sort of felt a little tiny bit rougher than normal.. So I decided to stop and check it out. Revved it a little and the noise was the same. Thought I would baby it home because at this point I didn't want to cause damage. Over the next few Kim's the knocking got progressively worse and was starting to appear lower in the rev range until it was happening on idle. I stopped right away and got it trailered home.

I suspect it is bottom end. The noise is not quite as bad on startup. It also doesn't make the noise it you turn the motor over with the starter.

Any ideas? Have other people experienced this? I would suggest the motor would still be under warranty.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397832-gtr-engine-stuffed/
Share on other sites

Yes I can get a vid of the knock. It's a real sort of metal on metal knock.

I didn't get it professionally inspected. I know I should have now. To be honest I never heard the noise while we were taking it for a test drive. Probably because we just went for a short boost and then I said I'll take it. I only noticed the noise on the way home. Then however the noise was only made between 3-4.5k rpm and just off throttle. Like if you hold it there and where there isn't much load... I.e: on flat road.

Now it does it at idle.. :,(

Unfortunately the owner lied to u. The.noise at 3000rpm is a big end bearing issue, do not drive the car anymore, the engine will have to be pulled out, sump taken off, crank out and inspected, rods inspected, new bearings put in and te clearances checked, depending how long the knock has been there, hopefully the crank and rods are still ok.

U would have finished it off doing a run in the hills, RB series motors have issue's with oil starvation, and hills are the worst for it if the engine isnt setup with baffling, enlarged oil returns, extra oil in the sump etc.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news

My mate had the same problem after he bought his gtr,

Stated to knock at higher revs only and sounded like it was coming from the head

Slowly started to get worse and knocked at idle like you described

Ended up been number 5 and 6 rod bearings, he was lucky no damage was done to the crank/rods

Goodluck!

Ok so it appears that the consensus is the bottom end.

Thats very annoying considering the motor has only just been rebuilt. (I have the receipt)

It even has a tomei baffle sump in it..

Ohh. Well then ring the engine builder and ask them if they can check it out. How

Many km's have been put on it?

Few possibilities if its a really fresh motor, things like dirty assembly, incorrect clearances, didnt clean out crank and block correctly etc etc.

Or of course driver abuse

The motor was built last year, there is about 19k on the clock.

Ohh. Well then ring the engine builder and ask them if they can check it out. How

Many km's have been put on it?

Few possibilities if its a really fresh motor, things like dirty assembly, incorrect clearances, didnt clean out crank and block correctly etc etc.

Or of course driver abuse

I just called the previous owner and he said they seemed a tad dodgy.

I am going to take it to another builder and get their opinion first. Then I'll take the other guys to the cleaners if need be.

Such a poor effort on the part of the builder though. I am very disappointed. Either way the motor is going to have to come put of the car.

Can anyone recommend someone I can take it to?

Where are u located? Actually Gtr engine removal isn't that bad, my mate and I did his in 4 hours and then another 4 hours to strip the engine and clean the work shop, there's a few little tricks but it's not really that bad at all

Scott

Engine rebuilds normally come with 12 months or 20,000kms warranty. You will have to check the receipt for the Terms and Conditions on the engine rebuild. I don't beleive you have any legal recourse with the previous owner. "Buyer beware". Car yards are a different matter, obviously.

If it does fall within the warranty period the engine builder has first right of repairing the issue. You will need to speak with them and if no luck write a factual letter, being polite, but a letter of demand none the less. If that fails to motivate the engine builder/shop to come to the party organise a fair trading (S.A is something like Office of Buisness Consumer OBC or something similar) certified engineer to be on hand when the engine is removed. You will need to engage them to write a report, with pics and root cause of failure. Cost $600 to $1000. Based on the report - it's off to concilliation/arbitration hearing with the Shop.

An award will be made.

If the shop refuses to pay and is a memeber of MTA then MTA will pay you :) and deal with the shop.

The issue with shops paying is that they can ask to pay a small amount on a regular basis and generally the arbitrator will say yes.

No one really wins. Thats the whole point of the arbitration process.

Cheers

$19k is a lot to be stung.

I'm not sure how long you have owend nor how you have treated your GTR since owning it.

But dude, owners know if there car isn't right.

Engine builders - fark me - it's extremely hard to find a good one. Good ones will stand by their work and come to the party to identify the fault.

I do  believe that the motor does fall within the warranty period, what you have stated above seems like a decent avenue for getting some equity back into the situation. The fact that I am a lawyer (by profession) will also help.

I have owned the car for two weeks and have driven it about 5 times. I didnt drive it as much as i would have liked as a have a 7 series BMW to putt around in.

Hey, usually warranty is not transferable, if possible see if you can get the person who had the work done go and bat for you with the engine builder

Good luck!

It isn't transferable, and even if it was small companies will weasel there way out of it and you'll have to take them to court to get anything out of them.

Bite the bullet and take it out and get a reputable workshop to look at it, imo there aren't many and I've heard far more bad stories than good stories with rebuilds, I don't really trust anyone these days though a second hand GTR motor is just as risky as most rebuilds.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...