Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay about 2 months ago I had got the dodgy exhaust system one of the previous owners put on ripped off and redone.

2.5inch, high flow cat, 1 resonator. But I left the cannon on it because I couldn't afford anything more at the time...

Obviously the thing to too f**king loud, I didn't really care and got used to it. Clearly the cops didn't.

Today I got pulled over, yada yada, $88 fine and EPA will send you a letter in a month.

The plan now is to rip the cannon off and throw on a twin tip muffler. The question is, will this pass through EPA? (Provided it is under 90db).

Thanks in advanced.

EPA emissions? that is the letter in the mail one? they dont look for noise just the emissions the car emits defect for exhaust noise and having to go get a check to make sure its 90db is the one you should hope it is? should be easy to pass if it dosent you need another muffler or resnator in it

90db isnt very loud at all, one resonator and a twin tip muffler is wat i run and i dont think mine would be under 90.

best bet would have it tested somewhere... judt dont know were ud dtsrt

  • 3 weeks later...

"... the vehicle bearing Registration Number XXXXXX is excessively noisy and therefore likely to be exceeding the legal noise levels for the vehicle..."

"The noise test and anti-tampering inspection must be undertaken by an EPA approved Mechanic by the compliance due date which is Wednesday, 23 May 2012"

"- the engine test speed for your vehicle is 4800 rpm and the legal noise level for your vehicle is 90 dB(A)."

Again, I have a stock standard RB25DE with a K&N high flow panel filter, and a 2.5" exhaust system with a high-flow cat and 1 resonator + cannon (Will replace shitty cannon with twin tip muffler, hoping for less than 90 dB), stock extractors.

Will that pass the test? I'm just curious about the 'anti-tampering' part of it. Is a high-flow cat considered to be 'tampered' with?

Thanks.

would put money on you not passing with your current set up, my guess would be 97-98 decibels.

if you could get away with the plate that would work (again asking as they didn't see it. perhaps place behind the cat flange with 5 1cm holes drilled in it and only make the plate 1-2 mm thick)

*not sure on how many holes lol

Been there done that when I was on my Ps lol..

Best thing to do is borrow a standard exhaust from someone on the forums (heck im sure someone will lend you it for a day in exchange for a case of beers).

- Take off current loud exhaust

- Put on standard exhaust

- Go to EPA

- Pass inspection

- Put back old exhaust on and return borrowed exhaust

Your looking at about $50 for a case (depending on what your buddy prefers :P), $60 from memory to take the test and the $20 or odd you will be spending driving to pick up the exhaust and drop it back off.. Still adds up alot cheaper than paying a couple hundred and getting a whole new exhaust fabricated

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...