Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay about 2 months ago I had got the dodgy exhaust system one of the previous owners put on ripped off and redone.

2.5inch, high flow cat, 1 resonator. But I left the cannon on it because I couldn't afford anything more at the time...

Obviously the thing to too f**king loud, I didn't really care and got used to it. Clearly the cops didn't.

Today I got pulled over, yada yada, $88 fine and EPA will send you a letter in a month.

The plan now is to rip the cannon off and throw on a twin tip muffler. The question is, will this pass through EPA? (Provided it is under 90db).

Thanks in advanced.

EPA emissions? that is the letter in the mail one? they dont look for noise just the emissions the car emits defect for exhaust noise and having to go get a check to make sure its 90db is the one you should hope it is? should be easy to pass if it dosent you need another muffler or resnator in it

90db isnt very loud at all, one resonator and a twin tip muffler is wat i run and i dont think mine would be under 90.

best bet would have it tested somewhere... judt dont know were ud dtsrt

  • 3 weeks later...

"... the vehicle bearing Registration Number XXXXXX is excessively noisy and therefore likely to be exceeding the legal noise levels for the vehicle..."

"The noise test and anti-tampering inspection must be undertaken by an EPA approved Mechanic by the compliance due date which is Wednesday, 23 May 2012"

"- the engine test speed for your vehicle is 4800 rpm and the legal noise level for your vehicle is 90 dB(A)."

Again, I have a stock standard RB25DE with a K&N high flow panel filter, and a 2.5" exhaust system with a high-flow cat and 1 resonator + cannon (Will replace shitty cannon with twin tip muffler, hoping for less than 90 dB), stock extractors.

Will that pass the test? I'm just curious about the 'anti-tampering' part of it. Is a high-flow cat considered to be 'tampered' with?

Thanks.

would put money on you not passing with your current set up, my guess would be 97-98 decibels.

if you could get away with the plate that would work (again asking as they didn't see it. perhaps place behind the cat flange with 5 1cm holes drilled in it and only make the plate 1-2 mm thick)

*not sure on how many holes lol

Been there done that when I was on my Ps lol..

Best thing to do is borrow a standard exhaust from someone on the forums (heck im sure someone will lend you it for a day in exchange for a case of beers).

- Take off current loud exhaust

- Put on standard exhaust

- Go to EPA

- Pass inspection

- Put back old exhaust on and return borrowed exhaust

Your looking at about $50 for a case (depending on what your buddy prefers :P), $60 from memory to take the test and the $20 or odd you will be spending driving to pick up the exhaust and drop it back off.. Still adds up alot cheaper than paying a couple hundred and getting a whole new exhaust fabricated

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
×
×
  • Create New...