Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had mine in for about 1000kms and love it. went to a track day last week and have a drag day at the end of the month. Do get chirps taking off sometimes if im at a complete stop, if i have a slight roll its nice and smooth taking off.

Clutch in, so far so good. Its acting like a twin plate at the moment, cant take off without spinning the wheels lol. The pedal is lighter somehow than the old excedy cushion button, which is awsome since the NPC carbotic is a much tougher clutch.

Only thing was the spigot bush that came with the NPC was 1mm thicker in ID so had to source another one.

Clutch in, so far so good. Its acting like a twin plate at the moment, cant take off without spinning the wheels lol. The pedal is lighter somehow than the old excedy cushion button, which is awsome since the NPC carbotic is a much tougher clutch.

Only thing was the spigot bush that came with the NPC was 1mm thicker in ID so had to source another one.

You and your shimmed diff lol

Well 2 weeks of 360kw and my Excedy Cushion button shat itself :/ so I'll call NPC and see what they recommend for 400kw as that's my next stop lolz

was it the pink pressure plate Exedy or the silver plate? saying that the NPC one is crazy good, so good I feel sorry for my gearbox LOL

was it the pink pressure plate Exedy or the silver plate? saying that the NPC one is crazy good, so good I feel sorry for my gearbox LOL

It was that long ago i cant remember.... It hasnt done many KM's but its been in there a while... i think it was pink, i know the plate was pink anyway....

For 400kw they will recommend a twin plate

Ghey! :(

For 400kw they will recommend a twin plate

I don't know why they would. Our NPC single plate 10" clutches are both holding 400-450rwkw happily for over a year now. Drag events, circuit racing. No problems.

We rate them up to 600whp before we suggest a twin plate is necessary

It was that long ago i cant remember.... It hasnt done many KM's but its been in there a while... i think it was pink, i know the plate was pink anyway....

Yep, the pink ones are made here, they're pretty much just modified factory spec pressure plates as Jim Berry told me, he goes the Silver ones are from Japan and they're suppose to be more serious.

I've had the Silver plate before from a R32 GT-R with a 4-Puk Ceramic, did me well for over 1 years till I sold the car, wonder if it's still going strong with the 3rd owner.

Ah. I have that npc 10", but i swear the guy said it will hold up to 400kw and after that a twin plate is recommended. Maybe i miss heard.

It's possible that slight arse covering is being done there. Maybe they don't want to say they can do something and then have one guy prove them wrong.400wkw is getting close to where we've tested them up to so I'm guessing that would be why they would say that

I don't know why they would. Our NPC single plate 10" clutches are both holding 400-450rwkw happily for over a year now. Drag events, circuit racing. No problems.

We rate them up to 600whp before we suggest a twin plate is necessary

This is what i want to hear! :yes:

I'm referring to the 5puk button variety btw. The organic we don't really push past 300rwkw

Yep just spoke to them about it, with modification he is confident it will hold the 400rwkw...... BUT it'll be a little pigish to drive daily :( anyone using one of these in a daily?

Hmmm thanks guys, will research all options but the guys at NPC seem to be the best in terms of knowledge etc so far :)

The button can be modified to hold 400kw so that should do!

Yep just spoke to them about it, with modification he is confident it will hold the 400rwkw...... BUT it'll be a little pigish to drive daily :( anyone using one of these in a daily?

I use mine every 3rd night? not too bad. I just drop it at around 1700rpm, I don't bother driving it smooth (clutch will last longer). Up the car park ramp at my gym is gold, there's a speed hump midway up. I usually just handbrake then chirp it over, people think I am retarded.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...