Jump to content
SAU Community

Run In Computer Choice

Room42

By Room42,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Room42 Proficient

Room42

Posted
Posted

Hi guys.

I just got the rb30 block, rb25det head and (obviously rb30) crank back from the machine shop today along with the internals. Cp pistons and precision h-beam rods. I am using a garrett gt3582r, 6 boost ex mani etc. I'm going to put it together on Saturday.

Anyway I am after some good opinions about what computer I should use to run it in. I can use the stock rb25 computer with the stock injectors and afm or I can use my aftermarket computer.

Main reason I ask is because I will have to (I'm too lazy/don't have enough time to) tune the aftermarket one to suit the run in period/boost whereas possibly the stocker will do the job. I have a wideband so if the stocker is no good then I will find out pretty quickly.

The run in tune will be done to a max of about 4500 to 5000 rpm for 500km and the lowest boost I can run is about 6 or 7 psi.

I have used the stock computer with the same turbo setup with the rb25 and it worked fine to about 10 psi or so.

Anyway over to you ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399201-run-in-computer-choice/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

^ exactly.

Bed the rings on the dyno, 20mins - then tune it up full power (20psi off we go). All my motors have been done that way and countless others. If it's build right there is no need for it. None of this 500km, light/varying throttle/low boost/up hills business.

Room42 Proficient

Room42

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That would be ideal Jangles. The only thing is that my wife isn't to keen to help tune anymore cos she is scared of the car. That means only tuning on the weekend with my mate. Or dyno time. I think it is a waste of money paying to get a 7 psi 5k rpm tune that is temporary. I am hoping for an "easy out" with the stock ecu. If it will work with the rb30det that is.

Someone tried the stock ecu for this?

Room42 Proficient

Room42

Posted
  • Author
Posted

^ exactly.

Bed the rings on the dyno, 20mins - then tune it up full power (20psi off we go). All my motors have been done that way and countless others. If it's build right there is no need for it. None of this 500km, light/varying throttle/low boost/up hills business.

I have done that run in myself Ash plenty of times. Although I did the bottom end (bearings) run in for longer on the dyno. It was recommended by the machinist that I do a longer on the road run in.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

^ exactly.

Bed the rings on the dyno, 20mins - then tune it up full power (20psi off we go). All my motors have been done that way and countless others. If it's build right there is no need for it. None of this 500km, light/varying throttle/low boost/up hills business.

Dont even need that with current gen materials lol

Start engine > No Leaks > Shut Down > No leaks > Start up > Full Load tune begin

Room42 Proficient

Room42

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Dont even need that with current gen materials lol

Start engine > No Leaks > Shut Down > No leaks > Start up > Full Load tune begin

Even though we are better off these days with machining and parts I would still recommend some heat cycling before turning it up. What about the stock ecu though? That is what I was curious about.

51NNA Community Regular

51NNA

Posted
Posted (edited)

^^ Run in is a thing of the past, if you really want to run it in do 50kms on the dyno with varied amounts of load. I wouldnt use a stock computer...last thing you need is it to wash the bores or lean out.

Edited by 51NNA
zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Even though we are better off these days with machining and parts I would still recommend some heat cycling before turning it up. What about the stock ecu though? That is what I was curious about.

Big Turbo Rb30 = Stock ECU having a fit, and run stupid rich = glazed bores and crap ring seal

There isnt much to heat cycle unless you found a virgin block and head

Room42 Proficient

Room42

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

^^ Run in is a thing of the past, if you really want to run it in do 50kms on the dyno with varied amounts of load. I wouldnt use a stock computer...last thing you need is it to wash the bores or lean out.

I don't think running in should be underestimated although it can be done on the dyno. Yeah I noticed that there were lean parts with the 25 with the turbo setup coming on boost. It seemed to stay around twelve to one on boost though.

Anyway I think I have enough now to make a choice. I was going to try the stock ecu etc and try the long run in to save money lol. Next week I will get the low rpm stuff done on the road with the aftermarket ecu and when it is "run in" I will head down the dyno and tune it.

Oh well I guess the stock ecu can stay in the shed along with all the other stock parts (in case of defect).

Thanks for the input guys :3some:

Edited by Room42
rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted

I would use whatever ecu runs the engine best. If you've never run the aftermarket ecu then I would not be setting it up on a new engine if possible.

And believe it or not but bearing life will increase with a gradual progression of loading. I didn't believe a bearing would bed in but I've seen it while dyno testing a highly loaded thrust bearing and monitoring local bearing pressures and thrust load temps.

jangles Veteran

jangles

Posted
Posted

I don't think running in should be underestimated although it can be done on the dyno. Yeah I noticed that there were lean parts with the 25 with the turbo setup coming on boost. It seemed to stay around twelve to one on boost though.

using a stock ecu would be worse for the engine as a whole.

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

don't a lot of the aftermarket ECU's have base maps anyway? so it's not like you'd be starting from scratch with a a/m ECU - as for running in, Rob @ RIPS has mentioned a few times that it's straight to full load tune once the thing is together, and considering you've built an RB30, just go for it. If it's good enough for RIPS it's certainly good enough for everyone else.

Room42 Proficient

Room42

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My aftermarket ecu already has a decent tune in it for the rb25det so it wont take much to adjust it for the 30. Probably a couple of percent on the fuel map will get it close to driveable, Also just shifting the big jump in the fuel map where it used to come on boost down 800 rpm or so.

The standard computer does a good job of running the rb25 but maybe not so good at running a rb30 bottom end. I don't know.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • Chocolate Cheesecake.
      Infiniti Q60 Navigation Update

      By Chocolate Cheesecake. · Posted

      I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Yep will do, thanks for all the help.
    • itsforandres
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By itsforandres · Posted

      @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...