Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 83
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Whats the project going on in the shed cal? :thumbsup:

lol standard corolla (carby power :) ) Dad's project, been respraying it for about 5 years now, just doesnt have time to finish it lol

Edited by 89CAL

Maxima Rear? Where?

2012-02-03173152.jpg

I'm struggling with that, too.

1995-1996_Nissan_Maxima_(A32)_30J_sedan_(2011-04-28)_02.jpg

Especially so as the quad tail lights on the Skyline dates back to 1973, seven years before the Maxima nameplate was created.

Having owned a few examples of both models - i'd suggest S15.

Newer, lighter, sexier (last ones debatable, i know).

Where are you located? Its my daily, but I have a black 200+ RWKW S15 I'd part with for the right price. mayyyyybbee.

PM me if keen.

post-86021-0-60279900-1336605469_thumb.jpg

Edited by iwanta34gtr

oh god are we back in 2006 again with the jaded rb20 powered r32 drivers trying to call out 33's as being heavy?

end of the day 33 has 25% more displacement, a far better gearbox, better brakes etc and when done right looks baller.

all this for about the weight difference of 3/5ths of f**kall

R32

1,280 kg (2,821.9 lb) (Type-M)

R33

1,390 kg (3,064.4 lb) (GTS-25t)

R34

1,410 kg (3,108.5 lb) (GT-T)

R32 with a RB25 = WIN

and if you think 110kg is 3/5ths of f**kall then your dreaming..

Edited by 51NNA

Especially so as the quad tail lights on the Skyline dates back to 1973, seven years before the Maxima nameplate was created.

The R33 is the standout car of all the modern R series Skylines that if it didn't have the quad rounds would simply not look like a Skyline from the rear. Nissan f**ked up with the styling, which is why the R34 went back to the more classic profile and boot shape. The R32 and R34 shape is linked to the R31, 30, all the way back to the 70s Skylines. The R33 is an aesthetic orphan.

The Maxima rear end reference I made is a serious sledge on just how generic mid 90s Nissan the rear end of the R33 is.

Dont buy an S15 over an R33! Sure they are good cars and the SR20 is a good motor, but how could you ever choose a farty 4 cylinder over a smooth and awesome sounding straight 6?!?!

The inline six is the whole reason I love Skylines (along with BMW's). The R33 is my least favourite looking Skyline out of the R32/33/34, but I still do like the look of them, and they can look really tough if done right. The "fattness" of them can be an asset with some nice fat rims and lowered to the right level. Series 2/3 front ends look heaps better too so grab one of those if you can. Or spend a few more $$$ and get an R34!

Edited by JustinP

R32

1,280 kg (2,821.9 lb) (Type-M)

R33

1,390 kg (3,064.4 lb) (GTS-25t)

R34

1,410 kg (3,108.5 lb) (GT-T)

R32 with a RB25 = WIN

and if you think 110kg is 3/5ths of f**kall then your dreaming..

It is f**k all when you consider the benefits it brings in component strength, braking, rigidity and HP.

The R33 is the standout car of all the modern R series Skylines that if it didn't have the quad rounds would simply not look like a Skyline from the rear. Nissan f**ked up with the styling, which is why the R34 went back to the more classic profile and boot shape. The R32 and R34 shape is linked to the R31, 30, all the way back to the 70s Skylines. The R33 is an aesthetic orphan.

The Maxima rear end reference I made is a serious sledge on just how generic mid 90s Nissan the rear end of the R33 is.

Go back to the C110 Skylines and you'll find the shape has more in common with 33s than 30s, 31s or 34s. I'd say if anything Nissan bastardised the Skyline brand with the shopping trolleys of the 90s and the abortion which is the R34 Gt-t. There is nothing at all classic about the 34 profile. The 32 and 33 share much in common and are more of a throwback to the original Skyline.

Go back to the C110 Skylines and you'll find the shape has more in common with 33s than 30s, 31s or 34s. I'd say if anything Nissan bastardised the Skyline brand with the shopping trolleys of the 90s and the abortion which is the R34 Gt-t. There is nothing at all classic about the 34 profile. The 32 and 33 share much in common and are more of a throwback to the original Skyline.

The classis Skyline profile is like the classic Celica profile - based on the classic Mustang coupe profile. You also see it in the Prelude and various other Jap cars. The R33 offers less of that and more visual bulk and blandness (like most 90s Nissans), coupled with unfortunate plastic garnish panels and so on.

I'm not saying the R32 is perfect. The embossed Skyline badge in the rear is a bit naff. The GTSt bonnet/grille area is full of fail compared to the GTR equivalent. But even with these things there is no comparison between 32 and 33. It's classic shape vs. complete fail. Ignoring the details expressed in the previous sentence, the shape of the 32 is correct, the shape of the 33 is wrong. Wrong wrong wrong.

The R34 goes back to the 32 shape. Actually almost all the way back to the R31. Again, some of the details aren't great, but the overall shape is correct. I would have an NA R34 over a turbo R33 just because I could live with the looks of the 34 and would always have buyer's remorse every morning when I walked out and saw the 33 in the driveway.

didnt R33's almost send nissan broke??

Eh? :ermm:

Well what do you want from it? There is hardly a 'best' turbo car, because it all comes down to opinion and what you want from it, etc.

Did I call it or did I call it?

The classis Skyline profile is like the classic Celica profile - based on the classic Mustang coupe profile. You also see it in the Prelude and various other Jap cars. The R33 offers less of that and more visual bulk and blandness (like most 90s Nissans), coupled with unfortunate plastic garnish panels and so on.

I'm not saying the R32 is perfect. The embossed Skyline badge in the rear is a bit naff. The GTSt bonnet/grille area is full of fail compared to the GTR equivalent. But even with these things there is no comparison between 32 and 33. It's classic shape vs. complete fail. Ignoring the details expressed in the previous sentence, the shape of the 32 is correct, the shape of the 33 is wrong. Wrong wrong wrong.

The R34 goes back to the 32 shape. Actually almost all the way back to the R31. Again, some of the details aren't great, but the overall shape is correct. I would have an NA R34 over a turbo R33 just because I could live with the looks of the 34 and would always have buyer's remorse every morning when I walked out and saw the 33 in the driveway.

Couldnt have said it better myself!

Eh? :ermm:

Did I call it or did I call it?

Yes, yes you did lol.

Edited by 51NNA

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...