Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

L O L I liked the part about "Honestly you should be happy that they actually have the correct equipment and actually heard the detonation."

and "especially when you have allocated 5 hours for a tune..... and not 2 days"

Who could possibly take 2 days to tune a car? Imagine the bill, hi yes that will be 1600$ please oh and great news it made 6kw more!

Not sure if you're serious or taking the piss but you'd be extremely surprised how many tuners DO NOT use knock detection on their dyno. I know of at least 4 in the greater Brisbane area and not only don't use it, but when challenged about it, simply state how good they are they are able to detect knock without the need for a knock detection device.

I can tell you I was very surprised when I also thought I had a good ear for that sort of thing then someone put a headset on me and proceeded to pull 8 degrees of timing out before I could stop hearing it knock. The car made 10rwkw less after that. The customer didn't blow it up.

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I always use knock detectors, even if the ecu has it, its hard to hear knock on certain cars over the engine noise and ecu's arnt always accurate, especially vipecs would read huge knock when there was none and read low knock when I could hear it quite clearly. I know a lot don't use them because half the time there to lazy to clip it on the block or there works to cheap to buy one, also yes a lot of cars can take time on the dyno to sort out bugs, but not something as simple as det.

I also know of a big name workshop here in Adelaide that doesn't use knock detection, I won't ever be getting my car tuned there again as when I hooked up some knock ears and reved out 3rd on a warm day it was detonating like crazy.

Really really slack, PM if you want to know who.

UPDATE:

Picking car up tommorow afternoon, if I have time I will post a dyno sheet.

But because I was only sent an 8psi actuator it didnt make a whole lot of power. I'm just glad they fixed the detonation and got it running correctly.

Needs a new rear muffler though, its partially collapsed.

I also know of a big name workshop here in Adelaide that doesn't use knock detection, I won't ever be getting my car tuned there again as when I hooked up some knock ears and reved out 3rd on a warm day it was detonating like crazy.

Really really slack, PM if you want to know who.

I dunno how these things handle det like that. I freak with the slightest little bit of det and dont push through it.

how accurate is a pwr fc at detecting real knock? or are all computers about the same

I have found they are all different. Some actaully ping at around 35. And some ping after 60.

So without listening and knowing, be carefull

Jez , your knock detection setup is pretty cool and seems to work quite well, not to mention it was probably cheap as. But ill admit at first I had no idea what the hell it was ...

Edited by Mitcho_7

Jez , your knock detection setup is pretty cool and seems to work quite well, not to mention it was probably cheap as. But ill admit at first I had no idea what the hell it was ...

Haha cheers man,iproblem is i spent $900 on the kmon kit and i prefer my new setup as i can hear alot more

Good power but f**k its lean, 12.5:1 =/ no wonder it was pinging lol

I run my own cars at 12.5:1.. never had an issue..... especially as the boost is so low... could go easy 13 depending on engine

I run my own cars at 12.5:1.. never had an issue..... especially as the boost is so low... could go easy 13 depending on engine

I had mine at 12.5:1 pm 19psi dropping to 16 psi making 260kw on a highflowed rb20 turbo on a neo, it also didn't ping which is suprising considering how small the rear housing is.

we detuned to 11.5-12 for safety but you can get away with it if timing is conservative.

Haha cheers man,iproblem is i spent $900 on the kmon kit and i prefer my new setup as i can hear alot more

What is your new setup?

I had mine at 12.5:1 pm 19psi dropping to 16 psi making 260kw on a highflowed rb20 turbo on a neo, it also didn't ping which is suprising considering how small the rear housing is.

we detuned to 11.5-12 for safety but you can get away with it if timing is conservative.

What is your new setup?

Its top secret :)

Maybe i should start tuning lean... Seems no body has been melting motors

Its top secret :)

Maybe i should start tuning lean... Seems no body has been melting motors

It is a street car, I would be nervous running it above 11.5:1 on the track, though I would be dropping the boost level for safety as well.

What are your thoughts on lean + less timing vs rich + more timing? I've heard the japs don't even use AFR they just use exhaust temp and go rich as hell and smash the timing into the motors.

Is your secret method a garden hose? Ear muffs with a microphone wrapped in a rag? cmon spill.

I run my own cars at 12.5:1.. never had an issue..... especially as the boost is so low... could go easy 13 depending on engine

Wow, ile show you a pic of my SR20's piston when I tuned it to 12.5:1, half the side of the piston melted lol was at 18pound though. I'd never tune above 12:1 now.

post-74177-0-08320600-1338073096_thumb.jpg

post-74177-0-99647100-1338073180_thumb.jpg

Edited by 51NNA

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...