Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

More progress. Initially was going to do the bay and interior grey, but ended up getting some paint mixed up to the same colour as the outside so will be painting the inside to match the outside now.

IMG_3148.jpg

IMG_3149.jpg

IMG_3150.jpg

IMG_3151.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Designed some solid engine mounts which will also sit the engine 175mm further back. Bolts up to all the standard mounts. Yet to FEA them to see if they're strong enough but I'm sure they will be...

Will 3D print them for test fitting before making any final adjustments to the design. Might also lower then engine 50mm if possible. Will have to wait on the new dry sump to know how low I can go.

DR30-engine-mounts.PNG

Edited by clubracer

Standard firewall will remain in place. Because the 30 originally had the 6, they mounted the 4 at the same forward point meaning a heap of room between the engine and firewall. Even the hole in the tunnel for the shifter is elongated and moving the box back 175mm wont even need a new hole cut.

  • 3 weeks later...

I've been moving house, then moving house, then moving house.... yes three times in the space of two months.... but finally, it's over. My funds have been depleted but I'll start saving again to get this project finished! I did manage to buy a few goodies before the funds managed to make their way into a range of greedy and sneeky real estate agents and tradesmans' pockets though...

The Borg Warner EFR is the best off-the-shelf option for improved production, although not strictly heading down that route now, it's good for over 400hp and is T2 based so will have unreal response. So far I dont know anyone who has an EFR on an FJ20. With the compression at 9.5 it should make for a really sweet little engine. And with the standard gearbox behind hopefully it wont be too mean with a much more linear power delivery.

I also managed to pickup this GTS-R spec (I think!) diff cover which is finned, has extra capacity and come from the factory with blanked holes for cooler lines. This will get fitted once I have the diff freshened up.

borg-warner.jpg

borg-warner-manifold.jpg

diff-cover.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...

So there's been a pretty big change of plans... In time will be selling the suspension, steering and brakes. All of it brand new or rebuilt. About 8K worth.

We are going double wishbone front and rear with our own uprights and brake callipers, so the whole braking, suspension, wheels/tyres and steering setup will have to go. Everything is custom made so that it bolts up to factory. Is 8K just in parts, and all the man hours on design work...

skyline-smaller.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah I know people will either love it or hate it, but at the end of the day I need to promote the business, and I want to do it with something that is a bit different that will stand out from the crowd. It'll be quite classic looking. No super modern wheels and crazy crazy aero, but clean lines and will actually do the shape justice.

Under the body is where it will all be happening though. Have completely bespoke and geometry optimised suspension with a double wishbone setup front and rear. Am designing some pretty trick rear uprights that keep the lower wishbone inline with the drive shaft so that the nice big aero tunnels don't get disturbed. We will also be mounting the callipers at the bottom of the uprights, further improving the C of G. Although there are lighter wheels around our own design will mean no restrictions. Mourning the front wheel cover will then be very easy for us. We are even contemplating covering the rear wheels completely and running carbon brake drums just the get the aero efficiency up. The brake calipers and uprights will be designed and manufactured by us and will be some pretty nice pieces of gear. We re already looking into using Titanium for the brake callipers, something that hasn't been done before (although there are some reasons behind this other than cost, which mind you has come down significantly).

We are also looking into carbon/titanium wishbones shaped for aero efficiency.

Still haven't decided on a transmission but after re-reading the WTAC rules it looks like we can run a rear mounted transaxle so I think that's the route we'll take. The FJ up front is a heavy engine, though we'll be doing our best to lighten as many components as possible as well as sitting it as far back and as low as possible.

We are waiting on a new 3D scanner to arrive so we can make a full 3D model of the car from cage to suspension (although still using the existing cage which is lovely anyway). We'll but removing from the front of the rear wheels tubs back, and from infant of the strut towers forward.

It's turned into a big budget project, but our design work costs nothing and we have the right partners to be able to make it into something of a showcase for us.

Stay tuned!

  • Like 3
  • 1 month later...

Very cool! Loved reading this and good luck!

And also well done for keeping it on topic! :)

You mentioned you had someone come and do some of the major pieces of rust and weld it up again? I've just removed most of the rust in my car but there are a few major bits that I'd like some help with. Would you mind putting me in contact with them?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Wish I had more to report on this but business has taken over the life so the work on the car had ground to a halt.

One small update, my legend of a business partner plumbed up the brakes to the pedal box so next week the car will be rolling which will mean I can take it from the current premises to have some more cage and bodywork done.

Engine is currently stripped and about to get the bottom of the block scanned for the new dry sump system I've been working on. Will see the pump mounted directly to the sump. The sump will be CNC from a billet, and am also doing a billet timing cover so we can plumb the il feed nicely. Should look pretty sweet! Now I need to start saving for the CPC manifold to match all the other billet stuff on the engine!

Will post photos when I have them.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

The reassembly started today. Engine will be finished at the end of January so the plan is to have everything else ready to go. A long road ahead.

But today whilst installing the steering column and box I've realised I've lost the steering coupling (the bit between the column and steering box input spline). Anyone know if other datsun/ non power steer r30 fits or if anyone has one?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...