Swing Valve Resting Position

[GoHard]

Hey guys,

Ive just finished the painful process of extracting exhaust manifold studs, now apon inspection of my turbo (stock) I have noticed that the swing valve is loose?

Sorry Im not all that clued on with turbos but I am assuming that should be shut pretty tightly?

If it is supposed to be closed tight is there a way to adjust it? Not sure how it all works.

Btw the actuator rod is tight, just the circular swing valve is flappy

Cheers

Edit: a bit mor info, the reason for doing the studs was exhaust leak (duh) now, one of the symptoms I was experiencing was a flucuation in boost. Almost like a flicker as it was climing. Now I just assumed that was part of the leaking manifold but now... Could this be caused by this?

Edited May 25, 2012 by GoHard

[Simon-S14]

Its called a wastegate. Can you get a pic of it so we can see what's up

[GoHard]

A picture? I was trying to think how I could take a picture of movement...

I guess this might explain it? Should I be able to slide a piece of paper behind it when closed?

Its loose enough to spin freely with my finger. I hope this helps?

[XRATED]

there should be some adjustment on the actuation rod that it's connected to it. adjust the rod so that flap is hard up against the seat. it'd be worth cleaning all the carbon off around the seat before adjustment.

cheers

justin

[jjman]

to me it sounds like there is more wrong with it than just the need for adjustment.

I dont think he should be able to freely move the wastegate with his fingers... or is it just the valve/disc that covers the hole that has some freeplay but the overall mechanism is still stiff and cannot be moved by hand?

[75coupe]

ahhh no, the wastegate flap itself can normally be turned, most of the ones Ive seen have atleast

but as Xrated said, it made just need some preload on the actuator rod...

[GoHard]

to me it sounds like there is more wrong with it than just the need for adjustment.

I dont think he should be able to freely move the wastegate with his fingers... or is it just the valve/disc that covers the hole that has some freeplay but the overall mechanism is still stiff and cannot be moved by hand?

Yeah mate the whole assembly is stiff as. Its just that circular disk that sits a bit loose.

See in the pic, i can grab onto the shaft (dead centre of disc) and it feels like very minute shaft play. I can spin it from there.

[GoHard]

Would I be correct in saying I cant adjust the actuator rod? Cant see a way? Its a series 2 r33 fyi

[75coupe]

well no you cant, not on the std actuator...

put it back together and drive...

[GoHard]

Hmm. Guess so. Rekon this would have been contributing to the flickering boost or that more likely have been the leaking exhaust manifold?

Thanks guys

[Marcus89]

A not entirely sealing actuator would make the car laggier shouldn't make the boost flicker unless there is an issue with it opening also

[XRATED]

put some washers between the turbo and the bracket the actuator is on...

[GoHard]

put some washers between the turbo and the bracket the actuator is on...

What I really need is a washer on the swing valve to shim it, but there is no way of taking it apart to get a washer in there. Circlip maybe but thats worth even more 's

[JonnoHR31]

put some washers between the turbo and the bracket the actuator is on...

This, should solve your problem nicely. Put enough washers on there to hold it shut and then an extra 2-3mm, should raise your boost a touch.

[GoHard]

Justin, johnathon... Thank you. Thank you so much. A washer under the bracket of both bolts brings it closed perfectly!

Is this safe? There isn't much surface area for the bracket to sit on in the first place so I dont see why not. This has been done before?

Edited May 25, 2012 by GoHard

[GTSBoy]

It's no different to shortening the rod.

[Simon-S14]

its safe, itys only going to raise the boost maybe half a psi and at most be boosting as it should where before it leaked