Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Diff 1.5 or 2 way. Use crown wheel & pinion gearing suited to the particular engine you're going to run

Tyres

Radiator + air guides

Brake pads/fluid/lines + overhaul calipers

Clutch + braided line. Lightweight flywheel.

Adjustable suspension links front + rear

Coilovers front + rear

Pay to have someone setup your suspension properly if you don't know how / want to get running sooner

ROPS

Seat + harness

In-car camera for use as a review/training aid

Spend time running it like that and learn to drive with stock power level for a season or two. Add up the costs above, IMO those are the things required for reliable, safe track running. If this is your first track car, you do not want/need 300rwkw. Plenty of fun to be had <150rwkw

Personally I would be doing these:

- The usual mods (exhaust, intercooler, pod or panel filter (your choice).

- Oil cooler

- Good tune

- Coil overs

- Sway bars

- Strut brace

- Decent tyres

- Brakes (rotors, pads, oils, braided lines etc)

Do a track day with these mods and then see how you are going.

Suspension, brakes, seat/s, harness/s, tyres, oil cooler, a real catch can, ROPS, replace all bushes, 1.5, full service on all the oils and fluids, to start with.

Dont overboost it and dont run it on the limiter

Is it going on a trailer or stay regoed ?

Remove all unneeded fat, carpet, deadener, A/C, trims.

Is the car stock or modified ?

Money to burn ? carbon everything, full strip rebuild, aero, dash, flashing lights and bells and also whistles, see the superlap site for details

ARK DESIGN TIME ATTACK SKYLINE GTR

http://www.advanwheels.com.au/racing/car.aspx?id=52

Specifications

Engine Nissan VQ35HR by Cosworth Estimated Power 900hp at the wheels Approx. Weight 1200kg Engine Modifications Cosworth built VQ35HR with WPC Treatment on all applicable components, BorgWarner EFR turbocharger, Turbosmart Hypergate 44 wastegates, DC Sports 350z headers modified Suspension & BrakeMods Tubular front double A-arm, Rear revised Nissan multi-link, Stoptech calipers, Project Mu pads, KW Competition 3 way dampers Driveline Modifications OS Giken differentials and triple plate clutch, Holinger Sequential Transmission, Albins crown ring & pinions, Drive Shaft Shop axles and prop shafts Chassis Modifications Design Craft cage and chassis work, Plastics 4 Performance molded acrylic windows Exterior Modifications Veilside widebody with aero modifications by Design Craft and Mike Kojima of MotoIQ, Final Konnexion fiberglass doors and boot lid, Voltex front splitter, front canards, and rear wing Wheels & Tyres Volk Racing RE30 Club Sports and TE37 Super Laps, ARK Design Duraluminum lug nuts, 18 x 11, Hankook Ventus TD 295/30/18 Interior Modifications Sparco steering wheel and 5 point harnesses, ARK Design bucket seat, Cosworth Electronics Pectel SQ6 ECU and Pi Research Sigma Elite datalogger, Pi Omega D3 dash display, Tilton pedal box I need to win LOTTO

i have an R32 - which im thinking of turning into a track car.

what mods / work would you recommend? (dream big guys and gals - would rather do it right and spend extra $$ than have a half arsed effort)

thanks

Look at existing 32s that are going fast at the local track here ie. sub 1:15 kind of lap times - and learn from them.

Dont build a christmas tree, they are rarely fast.

  • 3 weeks later...

bugger all that! do what i'm doing and chuck an ls1 in your 32.

much cheaper, lighter, just as powerful and you can be a trend setter, not a follower.

besides that how much fun can you have with instant torque?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...