Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey SAUers, I'm not sure how best to describe or if others will understand, but I'll try!

At high speeds, 100kmh ie, even going along straight the car seems.. unstable. Not that it jumps whole lanes, but it feels to me at least like a spider on a hotplate or on ice.

And yesterday after driving in St Kilda for a while on REALLY bumpy roads, it was even happeningish at lower speeds. Once I almost sideswipped a car next to me (I was inside lane, thank god it didn't go over to oncoming traffic), the car just suddenly started going left and I had to turn the wheel right.

Anyway, it is at mechanics, hopefully they find a bush missing or something extremely loose, but does anyone have any ideas?

I realise it is a GTR and has tight suspension and so on, but it seems to me that it isn't just being sensitive to the road.

Cheers!

Don't know about lock bar, but I'll relay that it could be HICAS.

Definitely makes sense that it would be HICAS, as it is definitely some sort of weird steering thing that doesn't affect the steering wheel itself.

Oh another thing, it also seems to happen more not just from going over bumpy things, but by fanging it. IE 1st 2nd to 100kmh, it definitely feels wobbly.

Hicas eliminator is good because it eliminates the outer tie rod ball joints.

More expensive than a lock bar but cheaper than tie rods and ball joints

Those outer rear hicas ball joints are expensive and hard to find.

I think the bearings are ok. Both rears were replaced like 6 mo ago. Bushes should be OK, lots were replaced 6 mo ago as well when I replaced much of the rear.

I'll see what they say then perhaps think about lock/eliminator. I don't really plan on racing or whatever so I'm not sure the pros or cons of having it in for the street, but if it isn't much more then I guess I can go for it.

Meh I'd rather avoid defects to keep life simple.

What does it really do to the driving experience? My mate loves my car and he's got a massive single turbo 1JZ MKIII supra with a crazy diff (only goes to 45kmh in 1st lol) although i suppose his suspension is older and not as good.

Mk3 Supras are a little crude in the rear suspension, but not terrible.

HICAS is intended to produce slip angles at the rear as you turn in, to make the car more responsive to changes in direction. It is also supposed to make continuous small tweaks to the rear steering throughout a corner to keep the car on line. In reality, whilst it may enhance turn in (desirable), what it really does when you are fanging is make the rear do things that you were not expecting. Makes it very uncomfortable to drive fast. And that is while the system is still working properly. Once it starts to f**k up, all bets are off.

They re-aligned it.

It seems better, but still is a massive problem. Twice tonight on the way home along royal parade the car had a mind of its own and decided to 'jump' to the right. Thankfully they are only smallish ones and I react in time, but... damn.

What size / width tires are you running? Wider tires with a lower profile tend to "tramline" or follow the grooves in the road. Wide semi slicks are notorious for doing this, and the car feels like it pulls randomly when it hits a different angle on the road surface. Wide street tires tend to have the same effect.

I'm not sure I will check but they aren't low profile. 265R19 I do believe.

I'm starting to think its gotta be something in the suspension and steering rather than the wheels because sometimes when I break (sometimes heavilyish) the car will pull to the left/right and the steering wheel will actually turn a fair amount as well if I let it.. perhaps?

They re-aligned it.

It seems better, but still is a massive problem. Twice tonight on the way home along royal parade the car had a mind of its own and decided to 'jump' to the right. Thankfully they are only smallish ones and I react in time, but... damn.

Can you post how much toe in they dialled in - I had my car aligned too when I just bought it, felt shocking to drive - tramline central, then I went back to the alignment place and checked the toe in, which was left at 0 - now its 1mm or something like that, sensitive but much better.

265's wouldn't help much either - tramlining you all over the place.

I had the same issue with the hicas, after 70km or so it would just kick the ass out but always the same way, i believe the drivers side rear...would slide to the right, very scary, i had the whole system removed and the lock bar installed. I would have rather keep it, but just way too dangerous.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...