Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been on the search all day looking into which pump/injectors/fpr (if any?!) would be best for my setup & budget, I've gotten some info, but still need more.

After 300awkw & e85 out of my rb25 (in r32 gts4)

Injectors- looking at ID1000's / a big injector suitable for e85?

Pump- walbro intank 400lph

Fpr- still stuck regarding sizes/turbosmart/SARD?

I know I'm after rising rate, but are there many benefits vs brands? & what's the difference between turbosmart frp800 & the fpr3000?

Are all fpr's suitable for ethanol?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401452-e85-fuel-system-build-up/
Share on other sites

Check that things are E85 compatible...

My setup -

1000cc XSPURTS

HKS FUEL RAIL

BOSCH 044 intank

SARD REG - However this may change as its not E85 approved... So although it MAY be fine, its not approved like the others on the market are...

There are so many cars running that sort of power on E85 on here and a lot using diggerent combos.

If your on a budget there are plenty of options :)

Thanks for your reply,

Xspurts- I've never heard of them, any good? Good spray pattern etc? 100% E85 safe?

I almost bought 1000cc rc injectors, only to find out they have to be 'flushed every few tanks with normal fuel'... So no dice.

I didn't know 044's could be intank mounted? I still think I'll go walbro 400lph because it comes with a mounting kit for an r32 + only $170 inc shipping.

As for fuel rail I'm going to go eBay spec one that comes with my proboost ffp. Hope it's e85 safe.... Ha :/

Xspurts are sold by Injectors online, they are Bosch ev14's.

http://www.injectorsonline.com/categories.php?cid=106

I have been running these for over a year now on e85 without a problem. Contact them about an SX reg too.

Those injectors look alright, but I'm on the hunt for some 1000cc's @ $100 each or less. Found ID1000's come close @ about $109 each...

As for the fuel pump yeah I'll make sure it's e85 safe. What do I need to do with my fuel lines? E85 will eat my stock lines right? Do I need to go bigger diameter too?

So why do so many people have after market fpr's? Will it be easier for tuning with a fpr?

Where are you finding the ID1000's for $109? I'm after a set atm.

I think the guys running side feed from factory need an a/maker fpr if they are changing to top feed as you then obviously need to change to top feed fuel rail so the factory fpr won't fit. Plus you can then bump up the base pressure a tad to get that bit more from the injectors.

Edited by slippylotion

Those injectors look alright, but I'm on the hunt for some 1000cc's @ $100 each or less. Found ID1000's come close @ about $109 each...

As for the fuel pump yeah I'll make sure it's e85 safe. What do I need to do with my fuel lines? E85 will eat my stock lines right? Do I need to go bigger diameter too?

So why do so many people have after market fpr's? Will it be easier for tuning with a fpr?

I hope you're not going to not buy the ID's because they're $56 more than your budget.

E85 won't 'dissolve' your standard fuel lines. They're fine.

If your injectors are big enough (which they will be), leave the OEM FPR.

I hope you're not going to not buy the ID's because they're $56 more than your budget.

E85 won't 'dissolve' your standard fuel lines. They're fine.

If your injectors are big enough (which they will be), leave the OEM FPR.

Its only OLD fuel line that has this issue yeah? I re-run all the lines in new EFI hose so i hope it will be all good!!

And i spent more than the link above for the XSPURTS as i figured they are a crucial part to the build so why skimp on them :D

Are you talking about the rubber or steel lines?

If you're talking the steel hard lines then they are fine. Mine have not dissolved or 'turned into a pile of ash on the floor' like some people believe this stuff will do!

Are you talking about the rubber or steel lines?

If you're talking the steel hard lines then they are fine. Mine have not dissolved or 'turned into a pile of ash on the floor' like some people believe this stuff will do!

Nah, i meant the rubber hose!

Xspurts = ID's = Bosch ev14's.

http://www.xspurtinjectors.com/

Start life as a Bosch and then get modified slightly?

I hope you're not going to not buy the ID's because they're $56 more than your budget.

My mistake, $119, not $109. So $720 a set.

I meant are there any other 1000's people are running e85 on that are decent & under $600 for a set. Just curious.

I've seen rc1000's for $550 but their not e85 safe

I remember reading about cheap injectors here -

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/297224-installing-seimens-deka-injectors-onto-a-neo-rb25-r34/

Dunno if there is a set to suit your application or not but there were pretty cheap compared to what i ended up with.... Couldnt be bothered reading or searching for you but try and see if it points you in the right direction?

I'd go a deatschwerks fuel pump over a walbro... any day.

Don't use efi hose for e85- you need something teflon lined/rated for alcohol.

For the extra money, I still choose ID injectors over the standard bosch items.

J.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...