Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i thought we were comparing the wire-in ECU's? if so, both do low impedance injectors, so to the OP, no there is no difference in that regard. And i don't think e-throttle is going to be an issue for you, but i haven't checked if the xtreme can handle e-throttle.

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The board in the G4 Plug-in storm is the same as the board in the xtreme, but the g4 storm wire in ecu is different,and only has 4x injector drives,so if your running a G4 storm wire in on a 6 cylender then you can only run the injectors in batch fire.

Yes, keep it to the V88 and the Extreme. All others are useless to me.

No i dont need electronic throttle, i've deleted it on my NEO. Track control pfft, Load dependant boost control solves that issue.

I'm driving Xspurt injectors which are 12 ohms anyway. No problem there.

Guilt_Toy.

You tune both of these ECU's a lot by the sounds of it. A few questions.

What i'm doing is setting up my car so that the ECU reads all sensors, Fuel pressure, Boost Pressure, Oil Pressure x 2 (1x at the oil pump and 1x at the engines main gallery, Fuel Temperature, Oil Temperature, Coolant Temperature, IAT etc.

Now what i'm wanting to do is set up the ECU to switch on or off outputs depending on the above conditions versus another condition.

IE. RPM vs Oil Pressure (oil pump sensor) . If oil pressure is 25 psi or above @ 2,000 RPM, condition is normal. (I'll have several points mapped accross the rev range - IE 4,000RPM - 50psi oil pressure and so on). IF the oil pressure drops below its set point at given RPM then an output on the ECU will fire, enabling a warning lamp and the accusump's electronic valve (preventing oil starvation). Also if RPM is below 300RPM, the output is always on (For engine pre-lubing via the accusump).

The second oil pressure sensor will be the same as above, apart from the fact i'd have it switch a different output or cut the engine, or rev limit. Something along those lines.

Another setup i'll be doing is Boost pressure vs Fuel Pressure. Ratio will be 1:1, for instance if i have a boost pressure of 20PSI, i should have a fuel pressure of 63.5PSI, if the fuel pressure drops too far at this level i would like to have the ECU go into rich and retard. Can these both do rich and retard?

I'll also be doing a few other tricky bits and pieces, but these two are the big ones i want to get under way.

Can they both do above?

Just to clear the air;

from the link website:

History:

Link was one of the very early market entrants twenty years ago. 2010 witnessed a turn-around in the market perception of the Link name thanks to the technical excellence of its product. The launch of the ViPEC brand has seen a new product pitched against high end competitors with outstanding results. Continued clear and unambiguous differentiation is further required to propel the ViPEC name higher

<p>

<br>

Just to clear the air;<br>

<br>

<span style="color: #282828"><span style="font-family: Georgia,">from the link website:</span></span><br>

<br>

<span style="font-family: Georgia,"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 10px;">History:<br>

Link was one of the very early market entrants twenty years ago. 2010 witnessed a turn-around in the market perception of the Link name thanks to the technical excellence of its product. The launch of the ViPEC brand has seen a new product pitched against high end competitors with outstanding results. Continued clear and unambiguous differentiation is further required to propel the ViPEC name higher</span></span></span><br>

</p>

who is going to propel vipec to great heights now since ray has retired and dirtgarage is banned ?

Edited by Walk510

Still laugh about how hard dirt pushed vipec thrashed the rest then ended up with the gold box anyway. I guess the superior idle didn't matter on a drag car after all. Anyone know if his rebuilt the mercury 34gtr 26 recently? Lol

Edited by Ryan1200

Motec has been the ecu for many motorsport applications but the Link G4 Extreme is now being used by the new NZ Supertourer series:

http://www.linkecu.com/newsfromlink/v8-supertourers-are-go

The M84 is a versatile, race-bred ECU that is suitable for a broad range of high performance applications, including engines with up to 8 cylinders. It also suits rotary engines with twin, triple or quad rotors.

This new, entry level ECU is based on the advanced technology in MoTeC's benchmark M800, with a package of features to suit more moderate system requirements. It includes on-board Wideband Lambda plus 512 kB of data logging memory as standard.

Now with Nitrous Injection and 100 Hz max logging rate.

Install it as a stand-alone ECU or as part of a complete motorsport-ready engine management and data acquisition solution.

and about $2500

<p></p>

who is going to propel vipec to great heights now since ray has retired and dirtgarage is banned ?

I'm sure Paul would love to continue his crusade if the mods would reinstate his account...hell, that la bumba idiot's been hit with the ban stick about half a dosen times and his still on here.

But i dont know the history and that decision is for the mods....now back on topic..

Yes, keep it to the V88 and the Extreme. All others are useless to me.

No i dont need electronic throttle, i've deleted it on my NEO. Track control pfft, Load dependant boost control solves that issue.

I'm driving Xspurt injectors which are 12 ohms anyway. No problem there.

Guilt_Toy.

You tune both of these ECU's a lot by the sounds of it. A few questions.

What i'm doing is setting up my car so that the ECU reads all sensors, Fuel pressure, Boost Pressure, Oil Pressure x 2 (1x at the oil pump and 1x at the engines main gallery, Fuel Temperature, Oil Temperature, Coolant Temperature, IAT etc.

Now what i'm wanting to do is set up the ECU to switch on or off outputs depending on the above conditions versus another condition.

IE. RPM vs Oil Pressure (oil pump sensor) . If oil pressure is 25 psi or above @ 2,000 RPM, condition is normal. (I'll have several points mapped accross the rev range - IE 4,000RPM - 50psi oil pressure and so on). IF the oil pressure drops below its set point at given RPM then an output on the ECU will fire, enabling a warning lamp and the accusump's electronic valve (preventing oil starvation). Also if RPM is below 300RPM, the output is always on (For engine pre-lubing via the accusump).

The second oil pressure sensor will be the same as above, apart from the fact i'd have it switch a different output or cut the engine, or rev limit. Something along those lines.

Another setup i'll be doing is Boost pressure vs Fuel Pressure. Ratio will be 1:1, for instance if i have a boost pressure of 20PSI, i should have a fuel pressure of 63.5PSI, if the fuel pressure drops too far at this level i would like to have the ECU go into rich and retard. Can these both do rich and retard?

I'll also be doing a few other tricky bits and pieces, but these two are the big ones i want to get under way.

Can they both do above?

Interesting ideas. If this can be set-up, i'm sure guilt toy knows how to do it, but have you spoken to your tuner directly as to whether they are confident to do it?

Also, have you considered the haltech - from memory it has accepts all of those inputs, although its a little pricey aswell.

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

Huh, Paul from Red R Racing (swiper the fox) has been banned on here? What the??

Haltech, meh, my tuner says they are limited with what they can do, limited inputs and outputs.

He said for what i want to do, they are too limited and not configurable enough.

What i'm doing is setting up my car so that the ECU reads all sensors, Fuel pressure, Boost Pressure, Oil Pressure x 2 (1x at the oil pump and 1x at the engines main gallery, Fuel Temperature, Oil Temperature, Coolant Temperature, IAT etc.

Now what i'm wanting to do is set up the ECU to switch on or off outputs depending on the above conditions versus another condition.

IE. RPM vs Oil Pressure (oil pump sensor) . If oil pressure is 25 psi or above @ 2,000 RPM, condition is normal. (I'll have several points mapped accross the rev range - IE 4,000RPM - 50psi oil pressure and so on). IF the oil pressure drops below its set point at given RPM then an output on the ECU will fire, enabling a warning lamp and the accusump's electronic valve (preventing oil starvation). Also if RPM is below 300RPM, the output is always on (For engine pre-lubing via the accusump).

The second oil pressure sensor will be the same as above, apart from the fact i'd have it switch a different output or cut the engine, or rev limit. Something along those lines.

Another setup i'll be doing is Boost pressure vs Fuel Pressure. Ratio will be 1:1, for instance if i have a boost pressure of 20PSI, i should have a fuel pressure of 63.5PSI, if the fuel pressure drops too far at this level i would like to have the ECU go into rich and retard. Can these both do rich and retard?

I'll also be doing a few other tricky bits and pieces, but these two are the big ones i want to get under way.

Can they both do above?

A few of the track RB30s have the Link watching for lack of oil pressure. I bought a high quality 0-150 psi pressure sensor from Rips (they are widely available) and my G4 will be loaded with minimum oil pressures for each gear and cut the engine if they are not maintained. There was a video on U tube of a GTST with an RB30 and you could hear it stuttering at a couple of points at Hampton Downs as the oil surges away from the pickup. No doubt it can be made to switch an accusump. My plug in G4 has spare inputs - The wire in Extreme will have more as well as more computing power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...