Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I have been in and driven a few cars with the Greddy inlet plenum and as a package the cars have been animals. One runs 2530s the other T518z. Be an interesting comparison as loads of 9sec drag cars run the Greddy Plenum....and yeh, yeh , yeh you are all going to go on about drag cars and response....well at least drive a car with a Greddy plenum before you knock it

Thanks to all the contributors of this thread. All have their own experience/knowledge and it's an informative read.

I recently organised a GB on the NISMO plenum, 4 in SAU have taken it up, and I expect them to be received soon.

The claim is minimal by NISMO (average 1.8%). As pointed out in another thread there is other cheaper ways to reduce your track times/make power gains.

Dropping $1800 for small gain is for those who choose to afford it and hopefully sorted everyting else out, and some perhaps for bling.

I'm encouraging tuners and drivers who install these NISMO plenums report back. On real on road experience & dyno data, not claims or hearsay.

As an aside I'm interested in those new after market Midori? Gsensor too. It'd be nice to get the signals through alot faster.

Thanks guys for all the input, you guys have really been awesome in helping clear things up a little. I'm glad I took the time to post this all up and based on this feedback I've put the Tomei Expreme manifolds up for sale... I'm going to send them back at the end of the week if I can't find a buyer.... I guess whatever the loss is on these it will end up being cheaper than replacing something that might brake under the load I'm wanting to push this too.

To answer some of the questions asked before, my tuner has done flex fuel before and knows the Haltech system quite well. As for the leaning on 5th and 6th cylinder he knows about this though I guess if you didn't have to tune for it ie) running richer than it would help tidy up the tune too by not having to pump extra fuel in to compensate for that.

Also re: the head I made a mistake here and left the stock lifters and valves... I have the Tomei Type B cams in there atm... I'm going to raise this with my engine builder too to find out what it would cost to get something that would better match the 2530's.

The other point to mention is the car isn't in pieces at all, its driving about now with the motor as described in the my original post with stock plenum, manifold and pair of HKS GT-SS turbos..... I'm just preparing myself for the switch to E85 flex fuel and have the HKS 2530's coming from Japan and the ID2000's which I'm still saving for.

The final thing to decide then is whether to go 6boost low mount manifold VS porting and port matching the stock one. I've spent so much getting it to where it is now, I don't want to skimp on the manifolds and plenum if there are some benefits to be had in the tuning and performance side of things...... I also don't mind if it takes me another 8 weeks to save up to get this setup to achieve the best results.

Maybe we weren't being blunt enough; USE THE STOCK MANIFOLDS!!!! It's not about skimping on parts, honestly. There's so many big dollar builds around here who have the "buy any part regardless of price" attitude but for the reasons Ash mentioned the stock manifolds are proven to be the most reliable available and they work for the HP target.

The cams you have are a great choice, seriously they'll be fine. If you were to go to the higher lift same duration cams you'll need new buckets, machine work and basically that means pulling the head right down and doing a head service at the same time which all up will cost you a lot. So keep what you have there. I took the time to do a back to back test with those cams and posted results on here. For a drop in cam the increase was significant, so you can either take the advice or ignore it but here right now I'm saying to you that the cams you have already will do a good job. If you are going to go huge boost, add valve springs and your head is finished.

Good luck getting real results back from Nismo plenum owners, all you will get is a dyno sheet and seat of pants BS. Need to measure O2 in each runner for any meaningful data.

The final thing to decide then is whether to go 6boost low mount manifold VS porting and port matching the stock one. I've spent so much getting it to where it is now, I don't want to skimp on the manifolds and plenum if there are some benefits to be had in the tuning and performance side of things...... I also don't mind if it takes me another 8 weeks to save up to get this setup to achieve the best results.

6boost low-mounts are far from a bolt-on affair.

I suggest you start using the search function, most of what you've asked has already been covered in great detail (including the issues with the 6boost GTR low mount manifolds, pictures and all!)

End of the day it's your money.

If you have a budget, and want best bang for your buck - stick with the stock plenum/stock manifolds. More than enough users out there now proving the combination works. By all means drop another $4000 - but for the plenums 1.8% - $2000 is a bit steep.

You'd be better off putting the $2000 towards a stroker in the cost vs gains department as they are simply a waste of money unless you have an endless budget and are chasing every 1% of performance... Which for a street car/application - simply isn't the case.

Fair point on what's been said.. No point in burning coin if the gains are so small. Stock manifolds will stay. I'll just get them ported and port matched to the 2530s.

I'll post up my results when I have them.

  • 2 months later...

Havent Tomei revised there expreme manifolds? (welded on the inside now also?).

In regards to the plenums. I was advised to run a nismo plenum by my tuner. He stated that running one would enable the car to be leant on harder, and would also help in "resistance to pre-ignition" whilst tunning.

I to am running much the same setup as you.

Havent Tomei revised there expreme manifolds? (welded on the inside now also?).

In regards to the plenums. I was advised to run a nismo plenum by my tuner. He stated that running one would enable the car to be leant on harder, and would also help in "resistance to pre-ignition" whilst tunning.

I to am running much the same setup as you.

You will have to let me know how you go with your setup. I've literally just finished putting together the parts for my final upgrade... I say final as I'm likely to end up separated from the misses if I continue on with doing what I've done with the car.

I ended up getting a Nismo plenum btw. I returned the Tomei manifolds and got a set of standard manifolds that had been extrude honed and had them and the 2530's port matched and HPC ceramic coated the turbos and manifolds. I also ended up getting the Greddy suction kit and now I'm done... E85 flex fuel setup is booked and should have it back within a month, the motor is pulled first with a full respray in the Aston Martin DB9 Quantum Silver inside and out.

I really hope I get over 400kw atw and anything towards the 450 would be awesome..... all things considered I think I've done everything I can to get every last piece out of my motor, time will tell.

Sorry I couldn't get the 02 sensors for those interested. I will though be putting in EGT sensors on both turbos so will share what I can from the results there. At the very least we should see if the air distribution is even as the temps should be fairly equal if the fuel flows are the same.

Can't wait to get it back... just trying to figure out how I'm going to get United E85 from Warwick to Brisbane. I'm considering hiring a truck and taking some drums then transporting it back. I rang United today, $1.12 a litre. That's a little over $220 per drum.... 320km round trip with truck hire. Now if anyone knows how the feck to get the drums off the truck I'd like to know. I've heard some folk using old tires to bounce them down gently. I really want to tune my car with United though may can the idea as I'm still trying to confirm with United HO that it's definitely coming online in BNE within the next 12 months.

so where are you and where is the car getting tuned?

just get a couple jerry cans, say 3,. 1 in front, 2 in passenger footwells, that's 65L say (always can squeeze a little more in) - should be heaps for tuning purposes. And once you've emptied the first one, go and get some 98 to start mixing it down for the rest of the maps.

I run a stock intake plenum and HKS 2530s on stock exhaust manifolds, just port matched and heat coated.. running E85, 402awkw @ 20psi, and 310awkw at 14psi, and as others have said about the exhaust manifolds being cast they won't crack like stainless manifolds.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...