Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel System Clogged To Shit

GH05T

By GH05T,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

KURTIS34 Community Regular

KURTIS34

Posted
Posted

Dare I ask what the best way of removing this is? I tend to replace the fuel filter when I replace the oil filter anyway (i.e every 5k kms), because it's .. right there, and costs like $10.

I've only cleaned the pump out, but never really attempted to cut the mesh.

I used a new stanley knife blade

Not easy but I made it

Work

Could use anything really

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

so im going to replace it AGAIN with something different, just for funzies. anyway obviosuly my tank still has shit in it.

i could get the tan kcleaned and try again but i am sick of going through pumps. i do not know if its just debris in the tank or if its rust from the old tank.

You are sick of going through pumps.

But don't want to get the tank cleaned.

I'm confused, the pump wouldn't block up if the tank/lines were cleaned correctly...

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

No, the sock flaps around and shakes the crud off. That's the whole point of a floppy filter.

I did not know this. This is good. This will have to go on too. Thankyou for the info!

I should also say (though the above reply is not to me) that cleaning the tank and solving the issue is absolutely the best way to attack this. If the job to remove a tank in a 32 or 33 really is a 10-15 minute job then don't think about doing anything else. The R34 tank in my case to remove and put back on is a 8hour+ job which is why I'm willing to entertain alternative solutions! :P

GH05T Grand Master

GH05T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You are sick of going through pumps.

But don't want to get the tank cleaned.

I'm confused, the pump wouldn't block up if the tank/lines were cleaned correctly...

no, if their was rust then the tank would be replaced, their wasnt so the tank was cleaned, new pump, all is sweet.

battery Mentor

battery

Posted
Posted

I removed the mesh on 040 worked well for me

No issues I did a filter on every service

5000kms

Just comes down to what your prepared to do

I cut mine off as I got sick of pulling pump to clean it.

wtf??

This is like saying "my fuse kept blowing so I replaced it with a nail" or "my computer kept crashing so i threw it out the window"

Now all that shit that was clogging your pump filter is INSIDE YOUR PUMP/LINES AND f**kING THEM INTERNALLY.

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

fueltank.jpg

Seriously. It is an utter bastard on the R34. So much so I'd almost rather spend $1200 on fuel pumps lol. I'll try the filter and jerry can thing and post here just incase some poor soul has this problem and searches the forums and finds this (like I did)

i believe the car in question is a r32 not a 34?if he cleans/reuses his existing tank then everything will fit back up as intended

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Why doesn't everyone just fit a decent sock to the pump? It's not real hard. I have the original sock attached to an 040 in R32.

How the hell can u attach the stock filter to the gauze on the bottom of the 040?

GH05T Grand Master

GH05T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah was an r32, i got away with cleaning the fuel tank, replacing the pump and filters,

my mesh filter on my bosh 040 was clogged an the fuel pump was f**ked out. i was hoping to clean it off enough to drive a bit but just changed everything anyway.

dunno what people are removing filters for?

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

having dealt with a grunged up tank (car had stale fuel that had broken down over time)i believe the only way to clean it is to remove the tank, hit it with caustic soda and then a karsher high pressure water cleaner , i then flushed the fuel lines with solvent and chucked everything back together,(injector cleaner added) used a known working replacement fuel pump as the original was seized up with crud and couldnt be unseized, having seen the crap in the tank there was no way i was going to run the fuel pump without the strainer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...