Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I got a call back toady after the pump assembly was tested and it's f@cked. The pressure switch and accumulator are shagged and the motor itself is chewed out with the impeller chewing on the inner casing all due to the pressure switch sticking on.

So I'm getting a change over reconditioned assembly ex Japan for $1920 to my door from Hills Motorsport. The new pump is the late updated model with a better pump design and Pre filters fitted. Only catch is its a 30 day wait from Japan then for Hills to bech check and set it up then post to me, I'm expecting to wait about 6 weeks until I can refit it. Still could have been worse as its the last ready unit on the shelf.

Edited by slippylotion

Well I got a call back toady after the pump assembly was tested and it's f@cked. The pressure switch and accumulator are shagged and the motor itself is chewed out with the impeller chewing on the inner casing all due to the pressure switch sticking on.

So I'm getting a change over reconditioned assembly ex Japan for $1920 to my door from Hills Motorsport. The new pump is the late updated model with a better pump design and Pre filters fitted. Only catch is its a 30 day wait from Japan then for Hills to bech check and set it up then post to me, I'm expecting to wait about 6 weeks until I can refit it. Still could have been worse as its the last ready unit on the shelf.

I might have a spare assembly soon, not sure on the condition yet. That sounds like an expensive rebuild to me...

I wouldn't say its expensive seeing as the accumulator is around $350 trade price alone and about $200 for a pressure switch that you can't actually buy from Nissan then the cost of a new pump that again you can't buy separate from Nissan and I need the complete assembly. Nissan only sell the complete pump assembly for $5k trade. New pump assembly in Japan is around 200,000yen from Nissan. These are rebuilt in Japan but with Australian warranty from Hills Motorsport. Im not keen to take the chance on a s/hand pump as it could go a week later. Atleast with this I have a warranty and shouldn't have any further problems for the 5 ish years Ill keep the car.

Im not keen to take the chance on a s/hand pump as it could go a week later. Atleast with this I have a warranty and shouldn't have any further problems for the 5 ish years Ill keep the car.

Yep, I agree it would usually be the best option but at that price? Its not like everyone else is replacing them, they are quite reliable in most cases. It's you coin buddy...

Yeah I agree its a lot of coin but it seems the cheapest way to fix it correctly and completely. I though of a second hand unit but they sell for $700-900 so if it dies in a year or two its really half the cost of the fully rebuilt assembly wasted seeing as a new unit should last another 10 years or so.

Id probably guess that the other guys getting the pressure switch fault code or 4WD randomly coming on are probably in the same boat. I asked why my torque gauge would still read if the pumps shagged and he said its a theoretical reading via the G sensor not the actual pump pressure. While the gauge is showing front drive it may well not be actually getting it.

$700-900 for 2nd hand? massive rip off

i have a complete unit here you can have for $150. no idea if/what is wrong with it. but it might be a hell of a lot cheaper to pull bits off than 2k for a 'new' one

Thats cheap. Theres one on Yahoo at 25000 yen so far then postage and fees it will be around $400-500.

I know $1900 seems like a lot but I don't want to have another problem with it again while I have the car. I suppose its similar to replacing a turbo with a cheap stock unit, bound to go at anytime so might as well just go a new one.

I also just double checked the oil I bled out of it last week while flushing some through and found all the little metal fillings in it. Just a bummer all 3 parts of my pump assembly died :angry:

Edited by slippylotion
  • 1 month later...

any more news on this one guys? i am wondering if my attessa has the same problem :( i have the same dashboard dimming and the front torque guage blip issue when the 4WD light is off.. when the 4WD light is on all is smooth.

though i think ill remove shafts and disable the pump rather than spend a heap of coin on fixing it..

nothing? :(

I had this issue...4WD light coming on intermittently, the ATTESSA pump chirping away...

I had a dead battery a month ago and replaced the battery, left the battery unplugged for a week.

Started driving again last Wed and haven't seen the 4WD light on yet...so not sure wtf the problem is...pump hasn't been chirping like mad either...

wow that sounds like a cheap fix :) maybe ill give it a shot this weekend :))

LOL you gonna disconnect the battery for a week?

TBH I think the problem will resurface after a few more weeks, maybe once the car is driven daily the strain on the ATTESSA system will probably cause it to come back...

awesome thanks Scotty will hit them up if import factory dont come through. what did they sting you for a read? can they translate the codes for you? and one last thing if the light doesnt happen to be on will they still be able to get it?

[END SPAM QUESTIONS]

:)

They only checked it, and told me the codes, they were in english and self explanatory as I remember. Give them a call and ask, tell them Scott sent you down.

The tcu doesn't show the codes with a malfunction lamp, that is for the engine only I think.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...