Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

seriously? I was at the tuner yesterday for 5 hours.. sure it must be a dream loll I just do not brag about my setup on the internet like some of you. I have nothing to prove and couldn't careless if you don't believe me.

but for the people really interesting ( because, yes I actually got 3 pms regarding this) about the -9, yes its possible ot achieve great number.

and here, we do not run E85 ;) we run 94.

Lol, you did brag.

Considering what sean posted, then you should get ahold of some e85, better than that 94 stuff you boys seem to run :P

dont laugh, my mate is making 286kw @ 14.5psi with gt-ss

Yeah on my built motor i made 280rwkw @ 1bar as well

seriously? I was at the tuner yesterday for 5 hours.. sure it must be a dream loll I just do not brag about my setup on the internet like some of you. I have nothing to prove and couldn't careless if you don't believe me.

but for the people really interesting ( because, yes I actually got 3 pms regarding this) about the -9, yes its possible ot achieve great number.

End of the day mate -9s aren't going to flow 380rwkw @ 18psi, that's the simple truth.

If you really "do" have that power, take it to the strip and run near 130mph.

I bet you don't get any better than 124mph :)

End of the day mate -9s aren't going to flow 380rwkw @ 18psi, that's the simple truth.

True, I also referred back to the dyno comparisons spreadsheet on here and the -9's (GT-SS section) average at 303.1kw at 18.3psi which is exactly what I'm aiming for.

Maybe Cobra was running ridiculous boost? Some guys get around the 330-340kw mark with 22psi....but even that is still 40 odd HP short of 500. Not sure how far the -9's can be cranked but if you can run R33 N1s up to 25-26psi then I'm sure you can do that with the 9's as well....and that might be getting you quite close to say 360kw even though there'd be more heat created than anything else....guess it depends on where the -9's sweet spot is.

There'd always be some people out there who push parts to or past their limits....like Xkalaba and his ceramics :yes:

Edited by tommis85

Already did. Last intervention in this thread.

I'm just trying to help out the folk considering buying the GT-SS and all I get is whining and '' your a liar'' i don't believe you'' . Well, unless you pay the plane to ship my car and me to australia, unfertunately, you will never see me rollin on your drag strip.

Look at some japanese setup, they can achieve 600whp with gt-ss.

Jing R34 GTR

http://blog.nengun.c...26-tuning-world

The Jing R34 GTR has been slightly modified with Tomei and Reimax internals and two low mount HKS GT-SS turbo's. Generating 1.3kg/cm2 of boost and producing 467ps this GTR has been perfectly tuned for the street. Volk Racing CE28N wheels cover Brembo Monoblock brakes and Ohlins DFV suspension.

The concept from Jing was to retain the standard engine and easy maintenance and combine it with improved power, torque and appearance. While mildly modified, this R34 looked great.

at 18psi he managed to make 467hp but he doesnt talk about any cam and cam gear tuning etc etc. just a standard RB26, nothing else. Add bolt-on power adder and he could easily break the 500hp marks.

Okay I'm seriously done here. do your own research, I did 3 years ago, and I'm 100% happy that I went with gt-ss instead of -5 or -7

Edited by cobrAA

Already did. Last intervention in this thread.

I'm just trying to help out the folk considering buying the GT-SS and all I get is whining and '' your a liar'' i don't believe you'' . Well, unless you pay the plane to ship my car and me to australia, unfertunately, you will never see me rollin on your drag strip.

Look at some japanese setup, they can achieve 600whp with gt-ss.

We're just all very astounded that's all mate. Like Piggaz asked, do you have any examples to load up? Even some video of your own car in action?

Edited by tommis85

Jing R34 GTR

http://blog.nengun.c...26-tuning-world

The Jing R34 GTR has been slightly modified with Tomei and Reimax internals and two low mount HKS GT-SS turbo's. Generating 1.3kg/cm2 of boost and producing 467ps this GTR has been perfectly tuned for the street. Volk Racing CE28N wheels cover Brembo Monoblock brakes and Ohlins DFV suspension.

The concept from Jing was to retain the standard engine and easy maintenance and combine it with improved power, torque and appearance. While mildly modified, this R34 looked great.

at 18psi he managed to make 467hp but he doesnt talk about any cam and cam gear tuning etc etc.

Okay I'm seriously done here. do your own research, I did 3 years ago, and I'm 100% happy that I went with gt-ss instead of -5 or -7

Either way, even if hks gtss can make 380 odd kw, a bigger turbo would make that much eaiser and less stress on the internals.

Though do you have hks gtss or -9s. Even though most say its the same dam tubo, There is a comp sheet thats shows otherwise. but thats not the real point here

Edited by sydking

Hoping to have mine at about 25 psi,

Though if its not making much extra power past 20 then theres no real point pushing them in my books

So where are you at with your ride these days Sydking? From memory you were in my boat with too much lag? I've ended up sorting out my actuators and am just waiting to get my diff's sorted and possibly get an EBC of sorts

Did he tune it?

Yes i tuned it. Theres a few bits of info that have not been told with the setup. 2 main factors are built motor and higher comp.

Also all my dyno runs are done in 4th gear. Piggaz had the same question about the end speed with my GTR. I have alot of mechanical sympathy so i dont like to rev the engine to redline on the dyno. Most runs stop around 7000is maybe 7500.

True, I also referred back to the dyno comparisons spreadsheet on here and the -9's (GT-SS section) average at 303.1kw at 18.3psi which is exactly what I'm aiming for.

Maybe Cobra was running ridiculous boost? Some guys get around the 330-340kw mark with 22psi....but even that is still 40 odd HP short of 500. Not sure how far the -9's can be cranked but if you can run R33 N1s up to 25-26psi then I'm sure you can do that with the 9's as well....and that might be getting you quite close to say 360kw even though there'd be more heat created than anything else....guess it depends on where the -9's sweet spot is.

There'd always be some people out there who push parts to or past their limits....like Xkalaba and his ceramics :yes:

CobrAA said 18psi

If he said 28 psi than I would believe him....maybe

But for now I still maintain mostus dynos (mustang excepted)

Over inflate by approx 100hp to what we see here

Generating 1.3kg/cm2 of boost and producing 467ps

That's 340kw... which is nowhere NEAR 600hp. PS is also measured at the motor.

So 340kw, minus drivetrain losses... It's under 300rwkw (at the wheels).

Do you know how to convert?

I'm just trying to help out the folk considering buying the GT-SS and all I get is whining and '' your a liar'' i don't believe you''

you will never see me rollin on your drag strip.

You don't have your own drag strip?

Doesn't matter where the drag strip is, you'll never run more than 124mph - and if you do run 128-130mph, i'll gladly eat my words that you can make 380rwkw @ 18psi on pump gas.

End of the day a turbo can only flow, what it's compressor wheel will allow in terms of airflow. Simply put, at 18psi you cannot make 380rwkw on pump gas. The turbo's are not flowing enough air to do so on a 2.6ltr motor. It's simple fact mate regardless of what you have printed on a piece of paper.

Yes i tuned it. Theres a few bits of info that have not been told with the setup. 2 main factors are built motor and higher comp.

Also all my dyno runs are done in 4th gear. Piggaz had the same question about the end speed with my GTR. I have alot of mechanical sympathy so i dont like to rev the engine to redline on the dyno. Most runs stop around 7000is maybe 7500.

Ah, I assumed you went to 8000 RPM man. Maybe I missed that bit.

Never assume anything haha

Seems like people in here wanna make 20psi @ 3000rpm and make 350kw at wheels LOL

Not me lol gees...I'm hoping to run around 18 pounds for now and make around 280-300kw. I made about 270kw with my N1s so am hoping to improve on that a bit.

Which reminds me, I should throw them up on here for sale :D

Hoping to have mine at about 25 psi,

Though if its not making much extra power past 20 then theres no real point pushing them in my books

The bloke who owned my built engine before me was running GT-SS's and he reckons it made 355rwkw at something 26-28 pound (can't remember the exact figure). Tuned and built by Creatd in Vic, so dunno if their dyno is happy but it was impressive

Edited by GTR_JOEY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...