Jump to content
SAU Community

Nm35 Turbo

Sidius

By Sidius,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

^ you're right; by the time you attempt that you might as well take the bolt out, insert the washer & do it up.

BTW, is my braided oil line going in?

I'm not sure; makes getting the turbo back in a lot less fiddly IMO.

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted

Going back through this thread makes me laugh.

Anyway to getting to the point of why i'm posting.

I received a M35 today at my house...I'm going to name drop(rosella) so that if you wish to PM him and ask him who he used you can.

To say that I have never been more disappointed at the workmanship on a car before is going to be a big call.....this shop went full Re t a r d!

Firstly I'd like to say that rosella has done nothing wrong but to trust the workshop and "qualified" mechanic's he gave his car to.

So To start off(and this only get worse)

1/ Missing bolt on the back of intake bracket

2/ Loose top suction pipe hose clamp

3/ Suction pipe top bolt finger tight

4/ Suction pipe bottom pipe over tensioned....new stud needed as it was all but snapped

5/ Heat shields overlapping heat shield bolts....I might also add that they were rounded as well.

6/ Cross threaded Actuator bolts into the turbo...re tap needed.

7/ O2 Sensor way over tightened(well at least something was tight)

8/ After loosening the 2 bottom dump pipe bolts the whole dump pipe was flapping in the wind. Further to this there was a nut and bolt at the top that should not have been used at temp....the reason that a bolt was used was because they had drilled the thread through on the turbo rather than retapping it.

9/ Water pipe from the top not bolted on

10/ Oil line bolt not bolted on

11/ Turbo to exhaust manifold studs bolted up with ceased bolts from the turbo to dump side.....all were loose/finger tight with the exception of 1 bolt.

12/ Old line Banjo bolt missing one washer.....so it was pissing out oil everywhere. They tried to fix this by dumping a shit load of gasket goo over it.....this was there full re t a r d moment.....and everyone knows you never go full re t a r d!!!

anyway rant finished.......now to get the turbo back in tomorrow if I can!

13/ Used the banjo bolt from the block on the for the turbo........yes the one with the .8mm hole....this might have also added to the massive oil leak on top of the turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...