Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It was stolen last night, alot of effort has gone into it theft, and may have been moved by a flatbed.

I'm abit gutted, but somehow feels partially responsible for the lost as I didnt move it to the

synny coast with me when I moved there, and left it at the spare house.

I've have built this car from ground up and purposedly left the exterior ordinary to avoid unwanted attention.

The car actually has a Built RB26 in a GTSt body, running pretty much custom everything fom there on.

If anyone see this car floating around, please contact me via pm.

Thank you.

Wayne

post-892-0-48190600-1340597772_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403370-myth-got-stolen/
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

A friend of mine had his R33 GTST stolen last night from his premises in Robertson QLD.

Description of vehicle:

Blood orange/red R33 GTST.

Enkei wheels with semi slicks.

No rear spoiler.

RB26 engine with T88 turbo etc etc.

400R Skyline front bumper

NUMBER PLATES: MYTH

Engine number: RB250720899A.

VIN: 6R91MPORTWHKC4044.

Reward in place for information leading to the arrest/possession/location of vehicle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403370-myth-got-stolen/#findComment-6414909
Share on other sites

If only we had a tax on unemployed parents wanting to have kids and a baby bonus for working families we would have less of this BS.

Lucky you found it so soon Wayne before it hit Gumtree or eBay or even here.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403370-myth-got-stolen/#findComment-6420242
Share on other sites

Ok, First of all I would like to thanks everyone on here and the special people that helped me.

You know who you are.

Also I would like to mention a special thanks to the QPS that provide around 10 squad cars when the call was made and the officers involved.

Ok a shorten version of a 5hrs events.

Last night from a solid tip of during the day and into the night I organised a "private" search with grunt, at the same time the QPS from Mt.Gravvatt and Slack Creek crime squad was on notice.

A series of event took place, at the final address that we visited, 4 individuals who were detained with minimal force.

QPS recieved the call, the site was a declare crime scene, all person of interest was proccess, and it now was 3 in the morning.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403370-myth-got-stolen/#findComment-6421154
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...