Jump to content
SAU Community

Can I Put Windex In My Window Washer Bottle?

xntrq

By xntrq,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

Just remember; anything you put in your washer bottle will end up on your paint.

I don't wash my car with Windex. :no:

Well it contains

* isopropyl alcohol

* propylene glycol

* ammonia

I was looking up what these might do to rubber & paint > went off to sleep lol

xntrq Veteran

xntrq

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well it contains

* isopropyl alcohol

* propylene glycol

* ammonia

I was looking up what these might do to rubber & paint > went off to sleep lol

I assume the first two ingredients are bad as they are alcohol based?

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

Can't be good for windscreen seals either..

I use Windex on a rag to clean off cutting compound as I was recommended isopropyl, but only in small doses ..I wouldn't put it in my washer, not straight anyway maybe watered down a lot...sounds like a waste of money anyway Windex isn't cheap..just get washer mix from SCA or something its like 5$ and lasts ages..I bought a bottle and sharing it between 3 cars has lasted over a year, still have half a bottle left..

  • 2 weeks later...
Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted (edited)

Dont do it

It kills your paint, rubber, streaks like hell on glass and paint and makes your wipers dry out and shutter / hop destroying the motor and blades as they move across

The evaperation is too fast at speed and it makes a mess

The only time you need anything beyond water is if it gets below freezing ( which will crack your bottle and lines ) even the stuff posted above stuffs your detailed car up , best left for old crappy cars and mud bog trucks

You can buy paste glasswax and it works to keep bugs off and water stains or rain ex if applied in a few thin layers works but only at speed , its meant for race cars and planes

Just buy decent blades and change them yearly

And just like anything rainex and wax wears off , do it as part of a detail job min to keep acid rain or tap water from etching the glass

Edited by Carbon 34
sydking Veteran

sydking

Posted
Posted

Nothing beats new blades, So quite, No streaks, No mess. Cheap and under 10 min to install

Though i have been looking for a good Glasswax like rainex ect.

Can anyone comfirm if thats the sam stuff the race cars use when they have stripped all wipers and washer bottles?

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

I use Rain-X on my windows, and they do a washer additive that I also use. It doesn't leave any visible residue or spotting on my paint.

It seems to stretch out the time between reapplication of Rain-X, especially in the wiper track; which always wears off first.

Definitely agree with new wiper blades; also helps with reducing wiper track scratching, as the blades get older with more rubbish embedded in them.

Edited by Daleo
Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted

Nothing beats new blades, So quite, No streaks, No mess. Cheap and under 10 min to install

Though i have been looking for a good Glasswax like rainex ect.

Can anyone comfirm if thats the sam stuff the race cars use when they have stripped all wipers and washer bottles?

Yes its the real stuff but built up over lots of thin layers to work, you can buy glasswax from USA its pretty cheap under 20 bucks some megs wax works but beware some waxes stuff the wipers and they shudder bad , those silicone blade suck too unless its a downpour , splatters of water they clean to well and the backstroke is bouncing blades

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...