Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A mate was moving my car off his front lawn, when he started it spluttered and stopped and now there is not a hint of it even wanting to fire.

I have checked my power fc sensor check and every thing looks fine, i changed the ignition module with no luck, the cas is showing 2-3 degree's when cranking and 0 if unplugged, have unplugged the tps, cas and afm with no difference but they all do should up as faulty in the sensor check screen, i can here the fuel pump prime but just to be sure i took the fuel line off and there is plenty of fuel flow.

From here i have no idea what to check next, any idea's would be great.

check for spark, check for fuel. If there is spark, and there is fuel coming to the rail, then check fuel pressure (pinch the return hose and see if that changes anything).

if u have spark, fuel, pressure, then put an LED/noid light on an injector plug and make sure uve got injector pulse.

if uve got everything, it should start and id be asking my mate what else he did other than moving it off the lawl :P

I know there is fuel there but not sure of pressure, i'll check that, as for what my mate did, he was as hung over as f**k and didnt even want to go out side so im sure he wasnt cutting hoops around the block lol, he wouldnt do it if he was sober.

  • 3 weeks later...

+1

Check spark and injector pulse

Check spark plugs

Check fuel pressure

Check timing belt

Check compression

in that order

I have checked everything except compression which im sure would not drop low enough on every cylinder that not 1 cylinder would fire and checking if the timing belt has slipped a tooth or two, the belt is still intact and tight.

Also tried a different ecu and once again not a hint of firing on any cylinder.

Any other suggestions?

Is the cas aligned with TDC compression stroke?

how do i check that?

I did replace the cas with another one i have here but its been sitting out in the car port for a while so im unsure if it works, the shaft has surface rust so im unsure what condition the internals would be in, it has not been in the rain tho.

Have you checked all the fuses, any major vacumn leaks? also you can take the CAS apart to check the shaft isnt broken..sounds like when my cas broke..

Edited by SliverS2

Yes but wen u penetrate the opening u have to have it aligned correctly....

Theres a keyway in the exhaust cam as the cas must be aligned with TDC compression stroke otherwise the ecu has an incorrect reference.

Hard to explain but pull the cas out and have a look in the centre if the shaft. Then look inside the opening. U should notice a key way which should stop the cas being inserted incorrectly but if the keyway is missing its a little harder to align

Have you checked all the fuses, any major vacumn leaks? also you can take the CAS apart to check the shaft isnt broken..

No vac leaks, but even if there was one the car would still atleast fire on a couple of cylinders, have not checked fuse's or relays tho, will do that when i get some light.

Yes but wen u penetrate the opening u have to have it aligned correctly....

Theres a keyway in the exhaust cam as the cas must be aligned with TDC compression stroke otherwise the ecu has an incorrect reference.

Hard to explain but pull the cas out and have a look in the centre if the shaft. Then look inside the opening. U should notice a key way which should stop the cas being inserted incorrectly but if the keyway is missing its a little harder to align

It is in properly then, had to fiddle with it before it would slide into the D shaped keyway, untill it did the cas would not slide all the way in.

I think your cas might be broken inside, its happened to me before and i wondered why the car wouldnt start , then when i took it apart i could see the shaft was broken..

I also decided to not use the front timing belt cover anymore cause i wasnt sure if it was stuffing up the alignment..

Edited by SliverS2
  • 2 weeks later...

For those with the same problem check the fuse marked "starter" dont assume that this is for the starter motor and dont bother checking because the starter is working fine, its actually for a "starting circuit" which is apparently separate from the ecu, and even if it looks fine change it any way.

Also after flattening the battery many times trying to start it you have probably screwed your plugs and cleaning them wont help so get a new set!

Lessons learnt :/

  • 4 weeks later...

So it was just a fuse? If so you must not have checked ignition/fuel correctly, as it will only cut one of those out.

Apparently The fuse reduces the injector pulse to a point where it wont get enough fuel to fire but still enough to show a pulse on a multi meter.

No idea why its there or even if that info is correct but it does explain why everything checked out fine but it really wasnt.

Wow that is annoying, we had a similar problem where the wrong earth had been used for the ignitor, it could sink enough current to spark, but the spark was really really weak and wouldn't actually fire.

Had to strip the loom apart to find the proper earth when we wired it up again, took ages to figure that one out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...