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Hey just fitted a electronic boost controller to my 34 and have a few queries.

Firstly the manual says to use the fuel pressure reg as a source for the vacuum, but I had a blonde moment and tee'd it in on the vacuum line that runs between the manifold and that fuel valve that runs to the fuel filter. Can't find the name but it sits just above the fuel pressure reg and as I said it returns to the fuel filter. I assume it increases the flow of the fuel when the engines under load/boost.

My controller seems to be working ok but just to confirm is this ok or should I run it directly between the fuel pressure reg and the manifold?

Secondly I'm looking to install a boost gauge, now since i've used a line going off the manifold for the vacuum source would it be ok to use the line that runs from there to the back of the boost controller to tee in the boost gauge?

The way I see it instead of running a line all the way between the actator and solenoid with the gauge tee'd in between the manifold and the controller the gauge will be seeing manifold pressure which is the same as the boost controller.

Am I totally wrong and will this not work and cause problems with the controller functioning properly?

Cheers for any help

Any boost source off the manifold is fine. I'd rather not take it from the Fuel pressure reg cause then thats two lines that can split and result in incorrect fueling due to the FPR getting the wrong boost reading

Boost gauge is the same thing. And yes my theory is its best if your gauge and controller are both seeing the same boost from the same source. You cant hook your boost gauge into the line that runs to the actuator as this is taken off the IC piping usually which means it wont really see vaccum.

Manifold pressure will be needed for both controller and gauge. And taking them from the same spot is the best to ensure there both seeing the same boost

There is a line off the back of the plenum that runs to the car's own MAP sensor (used for the dash gauge, and in the case of the R34, there's a second MAP sensor that the ECU uses to look at boost). This line makes sense to tee into, as you know that it sees proper manifold pressure, and it is not associated with the FPR (and the inherent risk of losing all vital MAP sensing at the same time, as stated by Cal above).

Yeah I see your point ill find another source for the Boost gauge and the controller off the manifold I've seen a few people hook up boost gauges off the back of the manifold somewhere near the brake booster.

Cheers

  • 1 year later...

I thought I'd resurrect this thread rather than starting a new one. An EBC seems pretty easy to install but I've got a couple of questions as I haven't done one before.

I just got a second hand Blitz Dual-SBC Spec R EBC (thanks fantov!) to replace the current boost controller, a TurboTech V2, on my R34 GTT. This is the Blitz that comes with the big black dual solenoid box:

post-15500-0-64083100-1390899568.jpg

My current manual boost controller is tee'd off between the intake manifold and stock BOV, with the out pipe running to the turbo actuator. Do I just replace it with the new solenoid?

The Blitz manual also says the following:

For vehicles equipped with a stock solenoid, locate the factory T and remove the factory solenoid line from the factory "T". Then cap off the stock solenoid line. Leave the factory solenoid in the vehicle still connected to factory electrical harness.

Where's the stock solenoid? Will disconnecting this upset my ECU or Nistune?

Also, if I was to set the EBC close to the same setting as my manual boost controller (around 17psi), would it work ok without touching up the tune? Or is this kind of thing best done on the dyno? I don't have a boost gauge in the car and certainly don't want to overboost it...

The Blitz manual is available here. Thanks and sorry about all the newbie questions :)

1) get the vacuum source off the intake manifold. That way the EBC sees the total boost after any boost drops (FMIC etc)
2) I wouldn't use the hose from intake manifold to bov for the solenoid. I would locate where the factory solonoid picks its boost source from and run off that.

1) get the vacuum source off the intake manifold. That way the EBC sees the total boost after any boost drops (FMIC etc)

2) I wouldn't use the hose from intake manifold to bov for the solenoid. I would locate where the factory solonoid picks its boost source from and run off that.

Thanks! So by the looks of things, the line that currently runs into the manual boost controller (from between manifold and BOV) should go to the Blitz controller (i.e. vacuum source).

Can someone confirm which connector is IN and which is OUT in the stock solenoid? I've currently got the bottom hose disconnected (uncapped), I'm guessing that could be the actuator line? See pics below.

12405345963_d7aa45ede5_z.jpg

12405654104_30db2d214e.jpg

12405652814_b4fe530ed7_o.jpg

Yeah you could keep that "t-peice" from manifold to bov for the vacuum source if you like.

Regarding the solenoid set-up. From the manifold should be your "in" and to the actuator should be your "out"

Yeah you could keep that "t-peice" from manifold to bov for the vacuum source if you like.

Regarding the solenoid set-up. From the manifold should be your "in" and to the actuator should be your "out"

Thanks!

I'm still trying to work out which connector on the stock solenoid is 'in' and which is 'out', anyone know?

Also, where's the 'in' line to the stock solenoid connected to, in the standard setup?

It's only an air valve, it doesn't matter.

Just make sure you have the restrictor in the hose or boost will skyrocket on the stock setup.

Thanks Scott. I'm only asking because the Blitz dual solenoid has clearly marked In and Out, just want to make sure it'll be connected 100% correct.

EDIT: Another question for you Scott: I assume I can keep the stock solenoid wired in (electrical) even with the hoses removed? This shouldn't confuse the ECU/Nistune, should it?

Edited by V28VX37

I assume I can keep the stock solenoid wired in (electrical) even with the hoses removed? This shouldn't confuse the ECU/Nistune, should it?

Will be the best way, and run some fake hoses to somewhere, so they look like they are connected to something, otherwise you could get defected easily.

If you unplugged it you would throw an error code (on the stock computer) but I assume the Nistune can fix that in the software.

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