Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

So I have been a Skyline fan since I was a kid and unfortunately never had opportunity to make a car purchase a Skyline... Until now! I'm looking to get something cheap for my first one but still an R34, turbo, manual. something I can put my business logo on AND be the beginning of my motor sport for me.

I think I have it nailed down to these 2 cars but i'm open to similar if you see any!

The basic pro differences to my eyes are

Navy:

FMIC

19 inch Akita wheels

Adjustable rear camber arms

171,000KM

White:

Heavy duty clutch

Drilled and slotted rotors with extreme motorsport pads

Turbo timer

138,000km

Here is my assumed on road costs. Let me know what you recommend and why :D

NAVY BLUE

Purchase $9,500

Insurance $304

Registration $1,037

Coil packs $600

TOTAL COST $11,441

WHITE

Purchase $11,500

Insurance $304

Registration $0?

TOTAL $11,804

Im pretty sure theres a thread on here somewhere about buying a skyline and what to look for.

Chuck up a link to the cars, people might be able to help more with more info

Have you done a revs check on the cars?

Why's rego so expensive on the blue one?

How much do you know about cars?

Will you be doing work yourself?

What colour do you like? White is easier to keep clean than blue

this is the thread (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/35129-im-buying-a-skyline-what-should-i-look-for/) that r31slpr was referring to.

good, in-depth guide to inspecting a car thoroughly. very helpful

^^^^^DO NOT listen to the person above. While the above advice might actually be helpful , you never know when the trolling will start , hence disregard everything he says.

The guide posted above is your best friend.

That is all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...