Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Long time since Ive posted here. Anyway just looking to quieten down my car a little. At the moment its got the HKS Silent Hi Power exhaust(the one without the muffler), and its far from silent. Its a 3.5" exhaust pretty much just a long tube to a canon. Ive got another exhaust here which is the 3" Nismo exhaust which has a mid muffler and also the biggest rear muffler Ive ever seen.

If I swap these exhausts out will I notice a big drop in performance? I don't really do anything with the car which needs performance all the time. Just a daily driver to and from work and when out with the mrs. I figured since I granny drive the car I should keep her quiet(after seeing the ACA shit on TV and how cops are going to be cracking down on defective cars and mainly noisy cars, the least attention we attract the better).

I can live with power loss but if its going to cause my turbo to heat up much more rapidly which will raise intake temps and potentially cause det, that is what I can't live with..... We all know how strict HG is about high flowing exhausts with their turbos(SS2).

Any input? Are those nismo exhausts rubbish? Last I heard it on my car, I couldn't even hear the thing at idle and since the stock exhaust isn't even enough to stay legal, this one is quiet enough not to hopefully awake sleepy eyes when I finish those late shifts.

Hey Sarge,

What modifications have you got and how hard for how long do you run your Skyline?

Nismo is one of the best quality exhausts.

I dont beleive you will get too much of a drop in performance, the noise is alot quieter.

It's only going to cause a drop in power if it is a restriction. Which I doubt it will be. You mentioned the SS2, is that what you are running? At SS2 power levels, a 3" exhaust should be plenty. Just make sure it is a true 3", a lot of Jap exhaust systems have step-downs to around 2.5-2.75" which may well be a restriction. Not sure if the Nismo ones do this.

if its quiet it will most likely have a restrictor, when i put my old system on after it had a loud system, the silencer was having effects cause the car was running hotter, not pulling so hard and a couple of times i heard it knocking.. so you may need timing taken out.

I think TiTAN's statement is correct, its when you find a quiet exhaust with no mufflers(low profile crap you see online) which can shut the sound up but poses a massive restriction. The size of the rear muffler is f**king huge, if you've seen the Nismo exhaust you'll know what I mean. If you haven't its about two times the size of a HKS canon. The mid muffler is nice and big too. The pipes are full 3" all the way to the back. My old HKS was 3" then became 3.5" after the resonator in the middle.

Just fitted on the Nismo, honestly doesn't sound bad at all. It loses that tough raspy sound of the HKS but what I'm left with is a very nice quiet idle and a clean RB note. Only issue now is the damn gasket between the cat and the cat back is shaggered(its the multi plate copper thing). When backing off I can hear the plates flapping around so gonna need to replace it.

My car is all bolt ons(injectors, turbo, dump, ecu etc) for 255rwkw. Most of my drives are on average 15 minutes long. Sometimes the odd 40 minute drive. Never really take it anywhere. When summer rolls by Ill throw the HKS back on if the temperatures are an issue.

Edited by SargeRX8

Main problem with the Nismo 3" catback is the weight (good mufflers!), it flows pretty well.

You'll notice that the exhaust note wakes up after ~4000rpm so it's still good soundwise.

Performance wise you will take a hit from reducing ID of the exhaust, but shouldn't be to noticeable on your power output.

For reference I had that exhaust on my 32R for 4 years while it was daily driven, was a lucky charm with police I reckon because I never got any grief :)

Any exhaust system thats going to be quiet, is going to weigh a fair bit... that's just how it works.

You could add a better muffler to the 3.5" system if you wanted. That would most certainly help, two = super quiet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...