Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Similar thing happened to my wifes WRX all of a sudden was only running actuator pressure a week later back to the normal 12psi. Suspect the stock solinoid had a fault give yours a good clean out and then send 12v through it an make sure its working

Those stock solenoids in the WRX are a pretty common issue too. Can go either way. My mates one failed on the track. He saw 28psi before he realized and backed off.

Im leaning towards the stock solenoid in this GTR too. See of anyone has one thats been removed they would let you try out?

  • 7 months later...

I am getting the same things as the OP. I have a R32 GTR with a R33 GTR engine and ecu.

When it happens, I stop. Turn the car off. Turn the car on after 2secs and its back to normal.

Everything is stock except for exhaust and boost restrictor removed. I tried another standard solenoid and had the same problem. The solenoid is normally open at idle then when you apply throttle it switch's off OR its the other way around. I have also tested the solenoid with a 12v power source, its fine. When the fault happens the solenoid no longer changes its state until I turn the car off and turn it on again.

My train of thought is something electrical is putting out a signal that is making the ecu think something is wrong when its an intermittent fault, which explains why when you turn it back on, all is good. I will put some new plugs in, check the coils external physical condition, check the soldering job in the AFM's and check various connectors for bad earths and corrosion.

This seems to be a common problem with GTR's but I haven't been able to find a fix for the problem. The best suggestion was to check earths and for corrosion in plugs.



I have a standard air box.

I fixed the problem.

It was the AFM's.

They had been resoldered in the past but 2 joints weren't done very well. So I redid all of them.

Voila! Fixed! Hasn't played up in a week. Before it was doing it every trip, even short ones.

I should mention I changed plugs at the same time as my old ones were worn, and I made sure the coil pack earths were clean, which they still were from last time I cleaned them. But I am pretty sure they had nothing to do with it as the car was running fine before it would drop to low boost.

  • 4 months later...

I am getting the same things as the OP. I have a R32 GTR with a R33 GTR engine and ecu.

When it happens, I stop. Turn the car off. Turn the car on after 2secs and its back to normal.

Everything is stock except for exhaust and boost restrictor removed. I tried another standard solenoid and had the same problem. The solenoid is normally open at idle then when you apply throttle it switch's off OR its the other way around. I have also tested the solenoid with a 12v power source, its fine. When the fault happens the solenoid no longer changes its state until I turn the car off and turn it on again.

My train of thought is something electrical is putting out a signal that is making the ecu think something is wrong when its an intermittent fault, which explains why when you turn it back on, all is good. I will put some new plugs in, check the coils external physical condition, check the soldering job in the AFM's and check various connectors for bad earths and corrosion.

This seems to be a common problem with GTR's but I haven't been able to find a fix for the problem. The best suggestion was to check earths and for corrosion in plugs.

Sorry to revive a old thread but i have the exact same problem.

This issue is very intermittent and has also occured on my old S15. The way i would describe it is "losing both engine response and boost" only when the car gets hot. mind you my car is 100% stock even with standard airbox. i noticed if i leave car on idle for 2 mins or switch car off it will fix the problem immediately.

I've been trying to diagnose the issue for some time now. first i thought it was due to engine oil, so i switched to 10w-30. then i thought it was fuel injectors so i got those professionally cleaned no. also changed fuel filters, engine coolant temp sensor, 02 sensors and coil packs. NO CHANGE!

So it AFMs the last resort?

It should have been the first resort, it is well known the AFM's require re-soldering occasionally and the dry joints manifest as intermittent power loss as you described. Check the 'how to' tutorial.

  • 1 month later...

Its the AFM's. Mine started doing the problem again but not as often. The AFM's are old, that's pretty much it.

Need to find someone who can repair these things.

  • 4 weeks later...

I found out that if you unplug the water temp sensor (for the ecu, not the gauge) it does the same thing as when the intermittent fault happens so I would recommend changing that plus the air intake temp sensor on the plenum.

  • 5 weeks later...

And the problem is still happening. Its rare though now. Change the water and air temp sensors, nothing.

Probably cas, ignitor or AFM getting a glitch. Happens when the air temp is absolutely stinking hot or on a really cold night.

Try the AFM, i didnt believe it was a common issue till i opened my GTR's AFM meters up and found 1 barely connecting and the other one totally not connecting, a few minutes with a knife to remove the cover and some solder brought them back from the dead and fixed my problems.

On the bright side, even if it does not help, you have ensured this problem wont get in your way down the road and cause other issues.

  • 2 weeks later...

Yep, I opened up the AFM and resoldered the joints. They looked dry but still attached. The problem went away for a while after doing that but has returned. I'm pull the AFMs out again and resoldering EVERYTHING.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...