Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Not really. All 3 have the same size comp covers. They are interested moreso in response difference between -5's and the GTX2863 to confirm the 'on-paper' results with real world results.

The fitting of them to the car is probably going to be the most difficult thing. They run the disco comp cover which is larger than the -5/-7/-9 comp cover so we don't even know if they are going to fit in place.

We would prefer to have them tested locally for fitment but power figures from anywhere (except WA) will be ok

Anyone know how necessary it is to run the GTX front comp covers on a 2863??? Would machined -5 comp covers be ok so I can keep standard piping???

I went down and asked GCG myself. They reckon it just won't work with these wheels but who knows? It's a lot of money and effort to throw in the bin if it's a flop.

Daz, put a pair on and use a MAP sensor ECU.

Do all the piping up (I've spoken to Jack about this BTW), then do a power run. Now, take the piping off and run just the new comp covers open to the air unfiltered and with zero additions to the comp covers. Another power run. See what happens - thats the only way to know for sure and yeah, isn't exactly a cheap thing to do

Edit; That may not make sense. Sorry, the only way to know for sure is to try some back to back, one set with the stock GTR size covers and the other set exactly as Garrett designed them :)

Anyone know how necessary it is to run the GTX front comp covers on a 2863??? Would machined -5 comp covers be ok so I can keep standard piping???

Ive said this in the GTX thread yet I have already made the 'for science' call to GCG about ditching the fancy comp cover. Unfortunately the answer was that being a 'full blade wheel' they actually need a specially done surge slot for them to work. Results would be bad they rekon if you tried without the slot.

I made this call as at the time I had a disco, and wanted to know if they could simply GTX my disco (essentially the same outcome bar the comp cover) so yeah.

Gcg or any turbo company, should b looking at how to adapt the factory housing on the gtx series as they would make a truck load of cash, basically bringing out a hole new line up for gtr low mounts around the world.... Not everyone what's a big dirty cheater single.....

Yeah but for one model of engine? That really wont be more than 1% of sales for the $$$ in development... As it'd need more than just adapting a housing (aka buchtered GT3076s into RB25 housings that don't work... or AVO/Sonic housings)

Like Shell V-Power racing, just not viable from a business model.

And realistically if you are chasing 500rwkw+ which they provide - you are hardly looking at bolt-on approaches or setups.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...