Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gcg or any turbo company, should b looking at how to adapt the factory housing on the gtx series as they would make a truck load of cash, basically bringing out a hole new line up for gtr low mounts around the world.... Not everyone what's a big dirty cheater single.....

We can already have the stock GTR comp covers machined to fit the GTX2863R.

The problem is they surge ported the GTX covers for a reason. We don't want to 'try it out' in case its a flop and we certainly don't want to spend someone elses money to see.

To answer the question above. Yes the comparisn from -5 to GTX on Tomei manifolds would be enough also

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I dont no man, there's a lot of people in this world that have gtr's and low mount twins. They are losing sales because it's a pain in the ass to fit the gtx turbos. So why not design a new cover for em so they can b adapted, could surely couldn't cost that much, I mean they make turbos all day everyday, something like making a housing to fit should b that hard. They have made them all before. I'm guessing, but surely you wouldn't think it was a big deal considering that's what they do....

I dont no man, there's a lot of people in this world that have gtr's and low mount twins. They are losing sales because it's a pain in the ass to fit the gtx turbos. So why not design a new cover for em so they can b adapted, could surely couldn't cost that much, I mean they make turbos all day everyday, something like making a housing to fit should b that hard. They have made them all before. I'm guessing, but surely you wouldn't think it was a big deal considering that's what they do....

Wouldn't the bigger inlet and outlet be a major player in the figures, therefore, even if a surge ported cover with 2 bolt outlets could be achieved, it's restricting the gtx design and why it works so well.. Would make it a different turbo altogether. Be hardly worth it to produce a mediocre result from what can be achieved with the original gtx design?

Not really. They are surge ported to allow air to pass on to the exducer faster. It will allow more flow that way but we could back cut the comp cover to achieve a similar result I think.

The GTX turbo bolts straight inside the turbine housing of a -5/7/9 so if you want your comp cover machined up to suit I can get it done for you no problem.

They will be cheap for whoever wants to trial them that way. I'm talking around $1k a piece but that still hasn't been confirmed yet. STILL waiting for return phone calls on it. Hopefully I can chase it up a little more tomorrow

Daniel can you get supertech valve springs at a good price also? might aswell change them also in case the tomei's are a restriction.

Absolutely. Can I sell them to you at a good price though? Hahaha

*looks around to make sure Nismoid isn't watching*

Damn that's a good price Dan.

What price? I don't know what you're talking about.

sorry for the ignorant question but the GT-RSs have a slot in the comp cover, is that a surge port? and ifso would the GT-RSs comp cover go onto the GTX?

I don't think it would make a difference man. The GTX have a much bigger inlet to the comp wheel than the "GTR friendly" turbos.

The GTX low mounts simply just aren't bolt on :(.

i ready to go i have emails elite racing with all my detail and im ready for anything they want to try i have a shit load of stuff to build the head also if you want a built head and a spare block :P let get the 34 started new project and sponsorship come on guys lets do it for my amazing fiance that has cancer it is her and my dream car lets do it

Hi elite racing iv been trying to contact you about this project if pickups please get back to me today as im about to buy a new step zero stroker kit to build responsive motor please et me know as I dont buy it if im doing this as that stroker kit the say dont push it past 405kw to be safe thanks again guys im willing to get my spare motor shit buy you guys if you want to build it to what ever spec you want thanks again

Hi elite racing iv been trying to contact you about this project if pickups please get back to me today as im about to buy a new step zero stroker kit to build responsive motor please et me know as I dont buy it if im doing this as that stroker kit the say dont push it past 405kw to be safe thanks again guys im willing to get my spare motor shit buy you guys if you want to build it to what ever spec you want thanks again

Hi mate I got your email. I'm not ignoring you but I'm currently booked out until September 5th so getting in to reply is something difficult to do (especially because I don't want to give you a 1 line reply)

You being local is a bonus for test fitups so I'm organising a pair to be sent to me for a test fit if you are willing

Are the manifolds on the engine at the moment?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...