Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Firsts Things To Change

R32GT-Runner
 Share

Recommended Posts

R32GT-Runner Rookie

R32GT-Runner

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey everyone just brought a r32 gtr new to the fourm thing to

and its dead stock nothing at all done to it ive been told its one of the cleanest in Aus

was shocked when i found it so stock still has restrictors in it.

Is it worth keeping it stock for future sale?

if not what are the best modifications to do?

Edited by R32GT-Runner
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405372-r32-gtr-firsts-things-to-change/
Share on other sites
Deano 1 Mentor

Deano 1

Posted
Posted

rip the engine out, build a 3L motor, use your head, get a 6 boost made, bolt on a T51r, a fuel system to support e85, have PPG make you a dogbox, and go rip mega 4wd skids......

or keep it stock and park it in the shed.....

Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

rip the engine out, build a 3L motor, use your head, get a 6 boost made, bolt on a T51r, a fuel system to support e85, have PPG make you a dogbox, and go rip mega 4wd skids......

or keep it stock and park it in the shed.....

Fark!! so much this!

Buraz Proficient

Buraz

Posted
Posted

I bought my one stock like that too. Didn't last long!! Get some cam gears, nice exhaust with front pipes and 1 bar boost and it'll be a nice daily with about 230-240 rwkw, that's was my first stage of mods and never had a single issue. Plenty for a street car.

Next was turbos (steel wheel stockies) clutch, decat and tune with power fc. This got me 287rwkw and I haven't had an issue for over 4 years now, still going strong!!

But before I did any of this, I did a full major service and all fluids changed.

Hope this helps.

XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

Major service and change all the oil in the car, good tyres and break pads

Then decide where to go from there mate...soo many different routes to take

this, make sure the car is healthy first then when you decide what you want for the car make a plan and try and stick to it, lol

Juan_2_3 Enthusiast

Juan_2_3

Posted
Posted

This is what i did:

Do major service replacing all fluids engine, diffs, gearbox etc. Change timing belt, cam gears water pump.

I also changed the clutch because i knew i was gonna change the turbo's later.

Change the exhaust it if it doesn't have one. change the front pipe and cat at minimum.

If you still got money left over buy -7's or -9's.

Get a Nistune, power fc, Link or whatever your tuner prefers depending on your budget and get a tune.

At the end of the day you get keep the car stock but a stock GTR isn't that exciting.

DO the maintenance stuff first.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

outside of 'standard servicing' items like fluids and the timing belt etc, you should change the oil pump. the oil pump is the most common major failure in those cars..

if your gonna do that think hard about what else you want to do as it would be best to do it all at once.

if you do decide you want to work it up (new turbos) prepare to spend 10 grand at a minimum. Not Kidding.

otherwise just put a dump back exhaust on it and drive it around lol happy days

Buraz Proficient

Buraz

Posted
Posted

Dude you don't have to break the pump to spin a bearing. They have oil control issues from factory which causes bearings to spin. Plus its an old engine with god knows how many km. Factory didn't do too well in that area.

Buraz Proficient

Buraz

Posted
Posted

Depends what oil pump drive you have too. If its a small shitty one then the crank has to come out to get a collar fitted. It ain't worth all this trouble on a standard motor. It's not as easy as just getting one and bolting it on. Different pumps out there to suit different applications. Best to talk to a workshop who specialise in rb motors.

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

Factory fixed their mistake with the late 32, 33 34 engines. Oil pump drive on the crank was too narrow, so they widened it.

Get a collar fitted to the crank or get a later model crank.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...