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Diy: M35 Change Inner Cv Boot


Tommy Kaira RL
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Tools needed.

Shifter, Socket set and or ratchet gun and sockets. Big blade screwdriver, rags degreaser. CV universal boot kit, Circlip pliers, Jack and wheel socket, side cutters and pliers

Time needed 2hours approximately

1/ First raise up the side of the car that has the split boot.

2/ Remove wheel.

3/ Turn the steering wheel so the the disk points out at the front. This makes it easier to remove the caliper bolts.

4/ Remove caliper and hang it on a piece of wire on the top arm out of the way and remove the nut that holds the brake line. Also slide the disc off

5/ Take out the split pin and undo the nut on the end of the shaft.

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6/ remove the nut that joins to the top arm and pull down

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7/ You will be able to pull the arm down far enough and push the shaft back through the hub while you do this until you have enough clearance to pull the shaft out of the hub and rest it on lower arms

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8/ Grab a big flat screwdriver with a square edge and slide it in from the back and slide it between the lip of the shaft and gearbox

9/ Put a shifter on the square edge until its tight and then turn the screwdriver until the shaft pops out. Then slide the shaft out of the way and clear of the car.

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10/ Cut the old stainless ties and boot off and clear away as much of the old grease as you can with a rag

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11/ Pull the 2 sections apart and remove the circlip on the end of the shaft and remove the bearings so that you have just the shaft left. (I couldn't get the bearings to come off the shaft doing this it just wouldn't budge)

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12/ Clean up the bearings and the other end of shaft with degreaser ready for assembly.

13/ I was lucky the boot stretched out enough to go over the bearings.

14/ Measurements for anyone that wants to know

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15/ With boot over the shaft I put the circlip back on and greased up the bearings all over and the rest of the grease into the other end

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16/ Slide the boot up and over the wider end of the shaft and put on stainless straps and tighten

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17/ Now we are ready to put it all back together.

18/ Bring the shaft up to the gearbox and make sure its straight and push it into the gearbox. With a slight tap of a rubber mallet on the other end of shaft it will pop in to the gearbox.

19/ Pull the hub out so that you can get the shaft into the hub hole.

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20/ Put back the nut on the top arm and tighten and the big nut on the end of the shaft and tighten and put a new split pin in the hole.

21/ Put all the wires and brake lines back on

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22/ Put the brake caliper back on and tighten

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23/ Put wheel back on and lower to ground and take for test drive.

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It was from Repco. Like a one size fits all. I had to cut the 2 larger rings off first. I just gave them the measurement before I started. I could of gone smaller on the shaft.

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Tools needed.

Shifter, Socket set and or ratchet gun and sockets. Big blade screwdriver, rags degreaser. CV universal boot kit, Circlip pliers, Jack and wheel socket, side cutters and pliers, and rubber mallet

Nice write up Brad. Edited to add missing item from tool list :)

This mob on Ebay supplied mine - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4WD-CV-Joint-Outer-Inner-Replacement-Rubber-Boot-/220865687512?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336c9eefd8. Just give them the measurements & you will get on that's close enough so the stainless ties hold it on.

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I was going to do this myself also, but I rang my local CV joint and they did all four boots, supply inners and outers, clean, regrease and assemble for $120 cash for both shafts [not each]. I had to wait 45mins. Only labour involved was for me to remove the CV's from the car and take them to them. Very happy with the outcome and I could argue with the price.

Also found using a tyre lever with a 90 degree tip is the perfect tool for removing the drivers side CV from the diff.

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Edited by bennyb110
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