Jump to content
SAU Community

Catch Can Issues, Urgent Help Requested!

Spooger

By Spooger,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Spooger Explorer

Spooger

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, so I got myself a gtst and joined the team. The engine has had a bit of work done to it. It's running a Garrett M24 and I have some serious pressure issues with the catch can. I have asked a few local mechanics and have gotten different responses.

From - its rooted to its fine it's just not tuned correctly.

One guy basically screamed at me firmly telling me "no engine should have blow by" yet my mate who is the PDM at Toyota/Nissan told me even brand new cars do it which even is backed up on what I have read online. He further went on to show me his turbo hilux, that thing chugged like a steam train from the oil filler. He placed the oil cap over the top and the damn thing started dancing over the rocket cover.

The car doesn't blow any smoke except occasionally a very brief puff when changing gears (first drive of day) there was water in the oil but minimal amounts. I have confirmation the car has only done 1000km in the last 18 months. My mate from Toyota said that he would expect a car sitting that long to have that amount of water in it anyway (condensation) considering the doozy of the problem it has. I had a compression test done and it's a fairly even 120 across the board. However when the car is kicked in the guts oil splatters out of the catch can. I have been told - rebuild it! Suspected ring lans. However when I decided to start pulling the engine out this weekend we found the boost controller had a blown fuse and here is where I'd LOVE the advice, seems like the catch can system is plumbed wrong. (please remember I am a complete noob with these) from what we are assuming, is the Pcv tube isn't connected to the catch can rather it is plumbed back into the boost side of the intake. I will post pics soon as I can.

We are under the assumption that the Pcv is trying to boost 20psi through the top end of the engine and going straight into the tubes that run from the rocket cover into the catch can and blasting it out the filter on the top. When the valve is connected the filter on the catch can blows bubbles when idling, yet when u disconnect it, it stop. Any help much appreciated!!

f3a2e4f7.jpg

c3880b75.jpg

Top tube goes to pcv shown on first pic

80d7a892.jpg

8d9b7530.jpg

Edited by Spooger
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

If the car is new to you change oil and filter. Take it for a long drive so that everything comes up to full temp. get a compression test and leak down test. Go from there. Good engines can "breathe" quite a bit but broken ring lands are also common - test don't guess and don't pull the engine out unless you have to.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

No, no, no, no, no.

Starting at the PCV fitting, you should have:

PCV to intake rocker cover (as per factory fittings)

Intake rocker cover to exhaust rocker cover (as per factory fittings)

exhaust rocker cover to catch can

catch can to intake side of turbo.

Ditch the stupid filter on the can (and plug the hole).

So basically, the catch can replaces the hose that goes from the exhaust rocker cover down to the intake of the turbo. And the whole system remains sealed and does not vent to atmosphere. And you don't have problems with EPA.

ahhbee Community Regular

ahhbee

Posted
Posted

yea the rocker cover lines are the two ontop of your engine. im not gunna enter into the atmo/plumb back catch can argument but i can also see in the second pic that your turbo intake pipe has a bung so that you could plumb it back in if you wanted. that looks like a lot of oil on the catch can, i would definantly do a leak down test, my guess being that you have a damaged ring or ring land

Spooger Explorer

Spooger

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks ahhbee. Yeah I've been told by a few ppl ring lands. I have only driven the car about 30km since owning it, it's done about 1000km in 18 months, I have my dear little fingers crossed its just because it's plumbed wrong and been sitting so long.

Spooger Explorer

Spooger

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah it's a fair bit of oil that is sprayed out. The catch can is full after 30km. I did give it a few boosts during that period (I know prob a bad idea but I couldn't resist :-P) it also used about 60% of the 4 liters I put into it (after draining it)

Dahtone Racing Grand Master

Dahtone Racing

Posted
Posted

From the looks of that you have more issues than a catch can plumbed wrong.

Boost should not go past the PVC because under positive pressure it's closed.

Forget the service just warm it up and comp test it if it's low then leak down test it.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Ok no problem. What is considered low? It's got 120,000km on it. Prob had a semi rough life too (drift car)

The actual figure is not so important - you are looking for one or two cylinders with more than say 5% less compression than the rest. e.g. mine range from 130 psi to 135 psi which is low but ok. I got a leakdown test and they were all fine.
gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted

Cut the hose and jam a bolt in there. Temp fix.

Its a shame im not in NZ, i have a plug that replaces the valve itself sitting in the center console of my R33 i dont use anymore. Id have sent it to you otherwise.

Just go into a metal shop with the rubber seal and ask them to make a bung to fit it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Duncan
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By Duncan · Posted

      Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...