Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes its been awhile since ive been on here...

Turbo went pop the other week now all i have is a loud gushing whistle with no boost.

Im going to be getting the turbo pulled out and hi-flowed by hyper gear, when i get it back ill be throwing in 4 mods

FMIC - HDI GT2

Boost controller - Gizzmo IEBC

Tunable ECU - possibly Microtech

Coilovers - ???

Im in Hunter Valley NSW and im pretty limited to where I can take the car to get it fitted with ECU and Dyno'd I was thinking blacktrack in Thornton as they are the only ones i know of with a AWD dyno. They are a Microtech dealer so my question is has any one got a Microtech fitted to thier M35 yet? is it worth giving it ago? has it been failed already? any input would be greatly appreciated

Cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407002-microtech-ecu-in-m35/
Share on other sites

Good luck with that one, as far as I know only the Emanage Ultimate or HKS Fcon Vpro have been successfully fitted and both of those options took a fair amount of R+D. Do they have the ecu pinouts yet? What do they plan to do with the electronic throttle and cams?

Hey mate,

Yeah i havn't even looked into it that far yet Ive sent them an email asking what they could recomend and ill see what comes back I guess.

Yeah i was the first S1 to be fitted by Cihan back in the day with Greddy Emanage Ultimate (1 small step for SAU Kind lol) and i would prefer he did this car too but as i am in NSW and he is in Melbourne im in a bit of a pickle and have to look at other options i guess. I did send Cihan an email but have not since heard back from him, Maybe he is a little flat out.

I'm willing to guiny pig the ricewagon but yeah i need more information whats the issues you mentioned before about "Do they have the ecu pinouts yet? What do they plan to do with the electronic throttle and cams"

If they use the P1ggyback version it may work but why can't they use the Emanage Ultimate? Microtech don't have a good name on here from the research I did. Common: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/385885-microtech-tuning/page__p__6155745__hl__microtech__fromsearch__1#entry6155745

You have a few options I guess:

Drive down like Craig did, I can install the Emanage and drop one of my tunes on to get you to Campbelfield where Cihan's dyno is located. (Yes, he is very busy atm)

Ask Craig nicely to wire an Emanage in for you, then get Jez to tune it on the central coast, he has tuned Craigs once so may be able to sort you out.

Ask Blacktrack to install something, can't help you there but I hope they know what they are doing. Do Microtech even have a base map for you to work off? OEM Crank triggering would be required at a minimum.

Maybe itll be easier to get the turbo swapped over and other goodies fitted drive it down to melbourne for a weekend and get e-manage installed and dyno'd.

Mate if possible can you pm me with what i need to order for the emanage ultimate (harness etc) also a price to fit it. I was planning to pack and send the car to WA where im moving in 4 weeks but i guess ill just drive it once its installed and sorted. what a way to take it for a test drive ey?

Cheers mate and thank you.

not sure about the dump yet just need to get it running first lol... and im running out of time before i leave. But once i get started there wont be any thing holding me back. I just need a good base to start from. and then ill tinker a bit more. are you willing to sell your old stock turbo housing at all? that way i can get that sent to hyper gear and get it rebuilt and sent up here and swapped out with my old one and ill put my old one up on here for sale as a donar.

  On 14/08/2012 at 11:25 AM, loymclure said:

To easy ill grab one... who is selling them for the m35?

Take a guess - the bastard's who's replied 3 times in this thread already...

many on here can attest to how good his dump(pipe) is!

Edited by ironpaw
  On 14/08/2012 at 11:43 AM, ironpaw said:

Take a guess - the bastard's who's replied 3 times in this thread already...

many on here can attest to how good his dump() is!

Sorry haven't had seen scotty's dump in use yet! Maybe Aaron might know lol!!!!!!

But yeah, m35's need a good dump......... ;)

lol.

The BC's are definitely worth the $1200 or whatever you pay. I got the cheaper red ones and others have the gold version, mine have been great and reliable for over 3 years.

The turbo I have here is still perfect so you could imagine I don't want to wreck it. I find it useful for jigging pipes etc also. There has been a bit of interest in turbo swaps though, perhaps I should lend them to Stao, or at least do it for my customers. Surely there are still a few failed housings floating about...

  On 14/08/2012 at 11:57 AM, TWOAR81 said:

Sorry haven't had seen scotty's dump in use yet! Maybe Aaron might know lol!!!!!!

But yeah, m35's need a good dump......... ;)

whats that supposed to mean?

  On 15/08/2012 at 4:04 AM, whitestag said:

You go near Sydney. Just had my turbo done at precision turbos. Ss1pu. I'm thinking of doing the drive down aswell for tune.

Are you sure it wasn't a Sierra Stage 1?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...