Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking to get new rims. Does anyone here have any experience with the weight of the wheel?

I'm currently running on stock 17" (no idea how much these weight) and looking to go 19". My mates telling me heavy rims can be felt to decrease performance.

I'm not too sure how it will affect our cars as we kinda have a bit of torque to play with. But looking at some Stance sc-5ive and i'm reading their about 29-31pounds (rim only) for the 19".

Is that too heavy?

Cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407387-wheel-weight/
Share on other sites

Spinning the wheels up to speed requires some power, heavier wheels will require more power, not sure how much you will actually feel this, but it is a factor.

The other issue is unsprung weight. heavier wheels add to unsprung weight and create more initeria in the suspension, meaning the suspension won't be able to react to changes in the road surface as quickly. Again, I am not sure how much you will actually feel this..

This is why people like the Rays 19s, as they are quite light.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407387-wheel-weight/#findComment-6494967
Share on other sites

Spinning the wheels up to speed requires some power, heavier wheels will require more power, not sure how much you will actually feel this, but it is a factor.

The other issue is unsprung weight. heavier wheels add to unsprung weight and create more initeria in the suspension, meaning the suspension won't be able to react to changes in the road surface as quickly. Again, I am not sure how much you will actually feel this..

This is why people like the Rays 19s, as they are quite light.

Yeah i wonder if anyone has experienced this. Or whether or not we can feel the difference for a set that's 30 pound.

My mate's also saying that since our car has a bit of torque it won't matter that much. Might be something trivial.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407387-wheel-weight/#findComment-6494989
Share on other sites

Yeah i wonder if anyone has experienced this. Or whether or not we can feel the difference for a set that's 30 pound.

My mate's also saying that since our car has a bit of torque it won't matter that much. Might be something trivial.

As already stated it wont make a bit of difference to your acceleration - it is another 40lbs you are adding to the weight of the car - not a big figure given the thing will weigh over 3000lbs to start with.

What it will do is degrade the cars ride and its handling. The heavier the tyre/rim/brake/suspension arm set (refered to as unsprung weight) the harder the suspension has to work to keep the tyre on the road. So your 30lb wheel (which is thereabouts of 10lbs heavier than a good 17" rim) will have an effect.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407387-wheel-weight/#findComment-6495021
Share on other sites

This is why good quality Jap rims are expensive, and knock offs are cheap- actually, just one of many reasons.

My 19" SSR rims are 8.7kgs each(or 19lbs). Even they are not the lightest option- some RAYS rims are even lighter.

Good question. What the other guys have said is correct- your increasing unsprung weight. Remember you have to fit a tyre too, which will be wider and heavier as well, compared to stock.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407387-wheel-weight/#findComment-6495062
Share on other sites

This is why good quality Jap rims are expensive, and knock offs are cheap- actually, just one of many reasons.

My 19" SSR rims are 8.7kgs each(or 19lbs). Even they are not the lightest option- some RAYS rims are even lighter.

Good question. What the other guys have said is correct- your increasing unsprung weight. Remember you have to fit a tyre too, which will be wider and heavier as well, compared to stock.

I don't track, just daily driving. Not sure if the effect will be very noticeable in respect to ride stiffness or something very trivial....30 pounds are pretty heavy for a wheel imo.

Any idea what the OEM wheel weight are for our cars (i'm guessing 20-21pound for the 17" as mentioned above)?

Edited by Marshan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407387-wheel-weight/#findComment-6495075
Share on other sites

Its not about tracking the car and looking for every last 1/10th of performance.

Upgrading wheels and tyres smartly means looking into a myriad of different areas. Unfortunately the "flat cappers" have turned it into looking at one area- "stance".

Things to think about in reality are weight both of wheel and tyre, clearance from suspension structures, Clearance from guards, clearance from brake callipers, Rolling diameter, tyre profile, and width. Plus availability of tyres in chosen size. And lastly Legality.

30lbs is heavy for a wheel, but not the heaviest by far. Imagine all the things the wheel is connected to- suspension, brakes, gearbox, engine, wheel bearings. Changing wheels effects all those parts in different ways. I'm not saying changing wheels will blow your engine up, but pointing out that if you chose a setup with a greatly increased rolling diameter, then expect a decrease in performance. Heavier wheels, your shock absorbers will work harder.

TL/DR;

do your research, going from 17s to 19s will effect the way your car does just about everything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407387-wheel-weight/#findComment-6495113
Share on other sites

As already stated it wont make a bit of difference to your acceleration - it is another 40lbs you are adding to the weight of the car - not a big figure given the thing will weigh over 3000lbs to start with.

It isn't just the additional weight to the car overall, it is a rotating mass the engine has to spin.

Similar to fitting a lighter flywheel, it is only a tiny difference in overall car weight, but the less mass the engine has to spin, the less power is consumed in doing just that.

But as said, I don't know how much you will notice heavier wheels, as they don't spin anywhere near as fast as a flywheel.

I would also suggest you ensure you select the correct size tyres so the overall wheel diameter is the same.. otherwise you will have all sorts of issues with your speedo..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407387-wheel-weight/#findComment-6495399
Share on other sites

Form>Function... Just sayin'

Seriously though, heavier wheels will cause more strain on components but it isn't a significant amount. You won't feel much difference and it comes down to what you want. As with anything, you will pay a premium for quality/brand name.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407387-wheel-weight/#findComment-6495548
Share on other sites

Quick question.

19" OEM rays? Which would weight lighter than the 17" i have now. Any decrease in performance?

I know that going from 17 to 19 is a big move and will have significant effect on performance and handling, but not sure how it will turn out if the larger wheels are lighter?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407387-wheel-weight/#findComment-6499782
Share on other sites

Why would there be a decrease in performance.

Assuming the rolling diameter is very close and the 19's are wider (usually the case with OEM), the main differences will be a greater rubber contact patch due to the wider rim-thus wider tyre (unless you are doing the stretched thing) and a harsher ride due to the lower profile tyres on the 19's.

Also you may notice a small decrease in fuel economy due to the larger contact area with the road (I lost around 0.5km/L).

Reference: I went from OEM 17's on my Stagea to Buddy Club 19's. Both weighed around the same but the BC have 245's on them (9" wide) where as the 17's have 215's on them (7" wide). Car handles much, much better with the new rims... but a lot of that comes down to the tyres.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407387-wheel-weight/#findComment-6499990
Share on other sites

^^ this.. no reason for performance decrese.. just rougher ride, as the lower profile tyres will absorb less..

Although if you run the same tyre pressure, the contact patch size will be the same.. just wider and shorter for wider tyres. Fuel economy may come down to the type of tyre.. maybe also a slight difference in outside diameter??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407387-wheel-weight/#findComment-6500105
Share on other sites

hmm... I am curious as to how you come to the conclusion that a wider tyre on a larger diameter rim will have the same contact patch as a smaller narrower rim.

I just can't see how the contact patch would be shorter for the tyre on the larger rim. Wider, yes of course... but shorter? Explain?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407387-wheel-weight/#findComment-6500125
Share on other sites

Contact patch size is direclty related to tyre pressure and weight on the tyre, not tyre width. A narrow tyre will have a narrow but longer contact patch, a wider tyre will have a wider but shorter contact patch, assuming the same pressure and weight. The contact patch area remains the same.

There are plently of articles about it.. but a quick search came up with this.

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Tyres-Grip-and-All-That/A_108915/article.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407387-wheel-weight/#findComment-6500256
Share on other sites

Contact patch size is direclty related to tyre pressure and weight on the tyre, not tyre width. A narrow tyre will have a narrow but longer contact patch, a wider tyre will have a wider but shorter contact patch, assuming the same pressure and weight. The contact patch area remains the same.

There are plently of articles about it.. but a quick search came up with this.

http://autospeed.com...15/article.html

I've heard of something like that too. Kinda makes sense.

I remember reading a thread on one of the 350z forums where someone was explaining that the OEM 17" might have a slightly larger contact patch than light weight aftermarket 18" due to the weight and negated grip of the larger wheel. I think you are right on the tyre pressure and weight bit.

Edited by Marshan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407387-wheel-weight/#findComment-6500890
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...