Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll check through my phone. I normally take a lot more but we were pretty flat out. Overall we had 200+ spectators and 52 lifters, thats not normal. We have 120 chairs and they were all full plus people standing around everywhere. Also had a grill going out the front with Nina cooking burgers. She bought down 100 patties and they didn't last past the squats, all gone before benches started.

So I was too busy to take as many videos as usual

I'll check through my phone. I normally take a lot more but we were pretty flat out. Overall we had 200+ spectators and 52 lifters, thats not normal. We have 120 chairs and they were all full plus people standing around everywhere. Also had a grill going out the front with Nina cooking burgers. She bought down 100 patties and they didn't last past the squats, all gone before benches started.

So I was too busy to take as many videos as usual

Sounds like a good day haha

I took a video of Birds squats, I'll leave it up to him to post

Yep fair enough

My lifts were nothing extraordinary haha, no need for vids.

I'm wrapped Markos took vids of Leesh, though - I forgot to do this / was too busy cheering her on. To hear him describe it as incredible is quite a compliment - this is a man who has filmed a 17 year old kid pull 300kg.

Leesh's deadlift is standout because it was the heaviest female lift of the day from memory - achieved under basic training from me, so imagine what she would be capable of if she trained with the PTC crew. Might be on the cards when she moves to Melbourne.

P.S. It's sad to read ignorant comments on FB about Leesh's vids, carrying on about form and squat depth etc. Last I checked, 3 white lights meant a successful lift. Talk about jealousy / egos feeling threatened. I'm reminded that it's the internet, where everyone is an expert on exercise.

Have seen the same garbage posted on some of Martin Nguyen's videos. How anyone can tell a record holder they're doing it wrong is nothing short of delusional. Put up or shut up.

Haters gotta hate.

She could do with more depth to remove any doubt but still, it's a "novice" comp.

for "novices"

It's how you learn.

There is a degree of leniency.

Also Leesh - I really worry for your lower back.

Not sure what the fix is.

I'm sure there are some exercises that the guys at your powerlifting gym could suggest that will prevent you from rounding so much.

Upper back rounding is one thing, but you are moments away from popping a disc.

Edited by TTT

My opinion is that as long as you don't feel pain in the back then you are doing okay, and to stop the moment if you do. I've always maintained that a max weight rep will naturally round the back because that's what the back does when it's being pushed to it's limits. For lower weights we keep it as straight as possible. You can see Martin rounding in a few of his vids too.

As for squat depth, whilst I say no harm in going deeper for certainty, the judges gave her one red light on the previous squat, so I don't think they were being too lenient. Plenty of red lights went up for the day too. It's hard to pick the depth from the video because Leesh's pants were the same colour as the spotter's.

  • Like 1

Pause Leesh's vid on previous page at 7 second mark. this is where the plates leave the floor.

Here is Marty

at 13 seconds the plates leave the floor.

Look at where they are rounded

Rounding of the upper back is always going to happen.

But losing that lower back tightness and allowing it to round is going to lead to injury.

and believe me, lower back injury is not like a Scap injury where it will heal with rest and band work.

Totally up to you.

I just suggest you don't continuously lift maximal like that.

Look at Martin's other vids though

Not saying she had perfect form, but if you're not feeling pain during or after the lift, you've generally done okay. We train to be able to lift this way and Leesh's 122.5 vid was a tired third attempt that she hadn't succeeded at doing earlier in the week. Her form on lower weights is normally much tighter in the lower back, as is mine. If she has concern about it I'm happy to work with her to stamp it out and keep the form stricter, but I don't believe that anyone lifting their absolute maximum weight (as in struggling past the knees) will be able to avoid a bit of back rounding in the lumbar region. She has long levers and consequently keeping a neutral spine at max weight is much harder without it turning into squat.

A couple of interesting and scientific articles from people who don't believe it to be a bad thing, as long as you aren't reaching end flexion in the lumbar:

http://www.liftbigeatbig.com/2014/04/its-time-to-shut-up-about-rounded-back.html?m=1

http://www.t-nation.com/free_online_article/most_recent/a_strong_case_for_the_rounded_back_deadlift

If I can give some advice.

The back is always going to round a little when pulling your max. If you can maintain your back form, you'd probably stall at some point in the lift where your weak point is, below the knee or lockout for example. The body is always wants to move into a shape it feels strongest, usually that's where the back rounds the back takes a beating. The back rounds to get around that weak point in your lift.

Hopefully I can make this as constructive at possible:

From watching your vid L33SH, at 6 seconds, a lot of people have this problem, the yank on the bar causes you to lose your back stability, your shoulders also round and your chest is very low. Next time you're training heavy, try pre load your back by taking the slack out of the bar, pull your shoulders back and down. Your lats and mid back below your shoulder blades should be switched on by doing this. By pulling your shoulders back you also bring your chest out.

So by starting in this position, you should be able to control your hips better, you back angle will stay relatively the same until you get to the knee then you can start extending. They wont rise too quickly like at the 7 sec mark. You want to transfer all drive you make from the legs into the bar. To do this your back needs to be as straight as possible.

Between 6-7 seconds, you seem to be pivoting at the waist, not so much at the hip which is why I've explained the above. So when your bar gets to above the knee really focus on hip drive with your glutes and upper hams.

Around the 12 second mark, in your negative, you seem to bend at the waist again. Back should stay straight and pivot at the waist with unlocked knees until you get to the knee and then sink back to start. It's almost like riding your hamstring to the bottom.

All of this should take some of the load off your back and help you utilise your leg power more, you pulled it quite easily. Hope that helps.

If I can give some advice.

The back is always going to round a little when pulling your max. If you can maintain your back form, you'd probably stall at some point in the lift where your weak point is, below the knee or lockout for example. The body is always wants to move into a shape it feels strongest, usually that's where the back rounds the back takes a beating. The back rounds to get around that weak point in your lift.

Hopefully I can make this as constructive at possible:

From watching your vid L33SH, at 6 seconds, a lot of people have this problem, the yank on the bar causes you to lose your back stability, your shoulders also round and your chest is very low. Next time you're training heavy, try pre load your back by taking the slack out of the bar, pull your shoulders back and down. Your lats and mid back below your shoulder blades should be switched on by doing this. By pulling your shoulders back you also bring your chest out.

So by starting in this position, you should be able to control your hips better, you back angle will stay relatively the same until you get to the knee then you can start extending. They wont rise too quickly like at the 7 sec mark. You want to transfer all drive you make from the legs into the bar. To do this your back needs to be as straight as possible.

Between 6-7 seconds, you seem to be pivoting at the waist, not so much at the hip which is why I've explained the above. So when your bar gets to above the knee really focus on hip drive with your glutes and upper hams.

Around the 12 second mark, in your negative, you seem to bend at the waist again. Back should stay straight and pivot at the waist with unlocked knees until you get to the knee and then sink back to start. It's almost like riding your hamstring to the bottom.

All of this should take some of the load off your back and help you utilise your leg power more, you pulled it quite easily. Hope that helps.

Thank you for your advice, I'll try to take this advice on board but I don't actually know how to change my form because I do try to pull my shoulders back and my chest out. I always remember Dave Tate's cue of 'show the writing on your shirt.' So I am already trying to do these things. I don't actually know how to use my hips rather than my waist, I seem to have a lot of issues using my hips in all exercises.

Thank you for your advice, I'll try to take this advice on board but I don't actually know how to change my form because I do try to pull my shoulders back and my chest out. I always remember Dave Tate's cue of 'show the writing on your shirt.' So I am already trying to do these things. I don't actually know how to use my hips rather than my waist, I seem to have a lot of issues using my hips in all exercises.

Try do some Romanian deadlifts if you don't already do them. I think they'll help you a lot. All the benefits on the dead just with less legs. You can work on maintaining thoracic extension which will keep your chest up and shoulders back whilst you tip lever forward at the hip.

I used to have the same problem not being able to use my hips properly in squads at deads

Edited by JezR31

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...