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Hey guys just looking for any recommendations on what I should need to safely track my new gtr.

What I'm really wondering is if it will be safe to take it to the track on occasions with out any sump baffles, or oil restrictors in the head?

Engine has been rebuilt by previous owner, basically everything N1 spec, pistons, crank, water and oil pumps ect. Car has 2860-5's, pfc and is making just over 300kw/atw.

What's your opinions?

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I run mine (N1 motor) with the oil overfilled to the first hump on the dipstick, no issues thus far running S spec tyres. I dont know what N1 motors have WRT oil control, but if the PO put a N1 oil pump in without doing any oil control mods then they've made the engine less reliable than it would be with a standard pump, as its more likely to starve oil, that is, empty the sump.

And yeah Hado is right, -5s at only 300kw is not great. You can easily get 300 easily with -7s or -9s, which are much more responsive and therefore nicer to pull out of corners with.

Cheers guys, the actual figures are 337awkw on 20psi. Not really fussed on the dyno figures at the moment but pretty keen on some bigger injectors and e85. Was told the tune at the moment is pretty safe, not sure until I take it somewhere else for an opinion.

Cheers guys, the actual figures are 337awkw on 20psi. Not really fussed on the dyno figures at the moment but pretty keen on some bigger injectors and e85. Was told the tune at the moment is pretty safe, not sure until I take it somewhere else for an opinion.

For track setup, here's what i'd do with your car. You don't need more power at this stage.

1. Full drain and replace brake fluid with Nulon Xtreme Performance (280 deg) or better (Motul RBF600/660, but its 2+ times the price of the Nulon)

2. Get a set of A1RM pads from GSL RallySport (swap in for race day, and back out again after)

3. Get an expert opinion on if you're going to have oil starvation problems based on a detailed description of the original owners setup

4. Go to a track day and see how the car responds

If the laggyness is a problem, getting cam gears and a retune for response should help somewhat. If its not enough, then swap the -5s for -9s....

Work on suspension setup/tyres etc. First steps are: fix anything broken or worn out, then mods are aftermarket coilovers, sway bars and attessa controller (esp if R32)

I have genuine n1 block Hks spec head Hks cams ect 2860 it make 515hp at 20ish psi. the motor has had serious money spent on it and goes like a rocket but anyway my question is if you pull them sump plug and shone a torch into the sump would you be able to see an oil baffle if installed ?

I am running (after consulting someone who does more track time than me) a JustJap Autech style catch can, with a drain added to the front which goes in the top of the oil filler cap. It is a very simple and effective setup, running about a litre over is a good idea too. I spent a day at Wakefeild and there was not a spot of oil in the inlet plumping. You will need to do something prior to tracking it

I have genuine n1 block Hks spec head Hks cams ect 2860 it make 515hp at 20ish psi. the motor has had serious money spent on it and goes like a rocket but anyway my question is if you pull them sump plug and shone a torch into the sump would you be able to see an oil baffle if installed ?

Dyno sheet

Dyno sheet

Will have it in 4 weeks time, just bought car off a mate and has been in storage for 3 years so getting a few things done and work away so it's a slow process. But still don't answer my question can you see a baffle through the dump plug hole with a torch ? If your that interested I can give you motor specs, it's big dollar motor. All Hks and tomei and n1 parts.

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