Jump to content
SAU Community

Which R34 Gt-R ?

the3

By the3,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

the3 Newbie

the3

Posted
Posted

hey guys ive been saving and have enough to get a 34 gtr with a bit leftover to do some mods, and i wanted to know which version of the 34 gtr is the best. what i mean is if you had the money which 34 gtr would you get ? also not going to keep it stock so it has to be easy to mod if that helps. cheers for the help in advance guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/
Share on other sites
GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

Without knowing your budget, the 2nd Q is of course easier to answer than the 1st.

So going up the scale of Non VS > VS > MS > VS2 > Nur > MS Nur > VS2 Nur > VS N1 > VS2 N1 that came directly out of the Nissan factory, I would go for the VS model (albeit that everything else is ideal about the car).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6501151
Share on other sites
GTR-34A Mentor

GTR-34A

Posted
Posted

In my opinion i wouldnt get too hung up on which one to go for, i would just focus on getting an accident free, rust free good example (if that is what you are after). as in the future a banged up rusted out nur will be worth less that an immaculate original non vs imo, grade 5 non vs are already chasing really good money in japan.

just my 2c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6501199
Share on other sites
maclarenf1 Experienced

maclarenf1

Posted
Posted

Try to find the best "overall" condition car you can... in my opinion VS make sense more than base model, you get some nice goodies with VS for not much more money. but condition is more important than anything else.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6501468
Share on other sites
(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

Considering you plan on modifying the car, I would suggest looking for a clean base model car. Any upgrades to the engine or suspension will trump the models above it anyway, so save some money initially.

This!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6501479
Share on other sites
Seano350GT Veteran

Seano350GT

Posted
Posted

Whatever you buy, please do yourself a favour and get it checked over by a professional.. I'm sure there is a fair share of Skylines out there that many look mint but could be a bucket of rust. Same with any car really.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6501491
Share on other sites
marcus 34 Enthusiast

marcus 34

Posted
Posted

I would personally get a Nur over an N1 which is pretty much the same car but more of a road going car with the mod cons unless you are trying to save a couple of kg's and planing to do Time attack/ track work, but i may also be biased. if you plan on modding a nice Vspec 2 would be the go

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6502104
Share on other sites
Iron Chef Grand Master

Iron Chef

Posted
Posted

I would personally get a Nur over an N1 which is pretty much the same car but more of a road going car with the mod cons unless you are trying to save a couple of kg's and planing to do Time attack/ track work, but i may also be biased. if you plan on modding a nice Vspec 2 would be the go

That's ridiculous! You're biased! Oh hang on...I am too...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6502224
Share on other sites
r32-25t Grand Master

r32-25t

Posted
Posted

Bang for buck the base model is an easy choice, but if I had the money I'd take a vs2. The most important thing to look for is a clean non accident car

Oh and if you want to know what a clean one looks like, ask gtrsean or Terry if you can have a look at their cars in the flesh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6502807
Share on other sites
marcus 34 Enthusiast

marcus 34

Posted
Posted

That's ridiculous! You're biased! Oh hang on...I am too...

Haha yes you are!! and if we were talking collectable N1 would be the choice just by numbers made and yours is prob the best example in OZ i'm a big fan V nice car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6503178
Share on other sites
iwanta34gtr Grand Master

iwanta34gtr

Posted
Posted

hey guys ive been saving and have enough to get a 34 gtr with a bit leftover to do some mods, and i wanted to know which version of the 34 gtr is the best. what i mean is if you had the money which 34 gtr would you get ? also not going to keep it stock so it has to be easy to mod if that helps. cheers for the help in advance guys

You have fantastic taste in cars.

I think you'll find it will come down to budget and what is available on the market when you are ready to purchase.

Personally, when I was searching I wanted either a vspec I or vspec II. Was not fussed as there are only a few small variations between these two particular models. I just wanted her to be clean, close to stock (In the hope that she has had an easier life) and bayside blue.

A base model could meet your requirements. Based on your plans, it just depends if you want the factory diffusers and extra sensors on the MFD. You may already have plans to change the diffusers, suspension - etc so take this in to account.

I suggest going out and viewing a few that are currently on the market. What I found when shopping was although they are all R34 GTR's, they all have an individual different feel and personality. Some I could sense may have seen a bit (or a lot) of track time, others were still nice and tight with KM consistent with the age and wear and tear presented.

Dont focus too much on 'model', but more so on 'condition'. And when it does come to 'budget', remember a bit more money wisely spent now on a well presented, reliable example may mean money saved later.

Depending how particular you are, patience is a virtue. Some of the cheaper examples have been for sale for quite some time and may raise a few educated eyebrows.

Hope this helps, good luck with the search and I look forward to seeing the result.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407680-which-r34-gt-r/#findComment-6504997
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...