Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I'm new here, and I can imagine its been covered before on this forum. But I can't find a straight forward answer.

The rear suspension in my R34 25GT has gone, and I can easily replace it for roughly $600, but I wanted to put adjustable coil overs in eventually any way, so that is what I'll be doing.

I was going to put Pedders Sports Ryder eXtreme XA Coil Over Suspension into it, But the bloke at Pedders seems to think they will fit onto the rears no problems, but might not fit onto the front for some reason.

Also he is doing a really crap job at getting back to me with an answer, which is why I'm asking here.

Now, I can buy a full set of these for $1520, what I want to know is, will these fit onto my car? (year is 1999 in case that makes a difference) Or is there a better product I can put on there in the same price range? (Can't spend anymore than $1600)

I know I can put on normal suspension for cheaper and it might be better quality, but I'll be putting on a body kit and new rims in less then a year (hopefully) and I don't want to have to change the springs again when this happens, which is a good reason why I want them to be adjustable.

Any help would be appreciated, Thanks in advance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rears come in 2 sorts. Eye or fork lower mounts. Fronts are the same for all R33's & R34's regardless of variant. Tbh I would be going somewhere else and probably getting something a bit better than pedders. Entry level teins, Silk roads etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apparently I must have eye lower mounts, I'm not using my car for any sort of drift/racing so they don't have to be the best,

How much would it cost for tiens or silk roads? And are they adjustable coil overs?

I don't know much about cars in general so sorry if I sound like an idiot haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, so I've looked over a couple of other forums posts, and I've narrowed down my search for my price range.

These are what I've come up with

http://www.pedders.com.au/products/52

http://www.isc-coilovers.com/coilovers.html

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18623&cat=422&page=9

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=20209&cat=422&page=9

The last two are the same product I'm pretty sure. Its just that one is a fork type and the other is an eyelet type. I think the 1999 25GT has an eyelet type (If someone could clarify on that it would be great)

Could someone please tell me which of these would be the better one to buy? As I really want my car back on the road ASAP!

Thanks :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got Tein SS on my 34 now, the rears got noisy and collapsed, this is why i am trying the BC's :)

Why don't you get Fulcrum Suspensions in Queensland to rebuild them? TEINs are much better than BCs ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So last night pulling away from the lights, I lost power for about 1 second. Bit weird, but I kept driving... 5 minutes later the pump completely dies. When I tried to start the car, the pump won't even prime.  I left the car for about an hour, tried to start it and it all appeared fine. Pump primed, car started, got the fuel pressure I should have.... Start driving home, 5 minutes later it dies again. I'm stuck in a shit spot this time going up hill with a car right behind me, so I just let the car continue to turn over while praying to the fuel pump gods. After about 2 minutes of turning the engine over, the fuel pump came back to life and I got home (only about another 5 min away).  So I've been digging around online, it seems like the 525 fuel pumps really don't like to be run at 100% all the time. I've found quite a few examples online of people killing their Walbro 525 pumps within about a year of usage when they are run without PWM.  So, my pump is an Aeroflow 525 (AF49-1057) and I've been running it at 100% without PWM. I'm thinking the Aeroflow 525 didn't like being run at 100% and has burnt itself up.  I really am sick of dealing with fuel pump issues, my current thoughts are -  1. Use a Walbro 450 and run it without PWM. It seems like these pumps hold up pretty well to being run at 100% all the time. I only make about 350kw and can't see me making any more power any time soon so this is probably a fine option.  2. Get a Walbro 525, run it with PWM. I know doing this will annoy me as I feel like with only 350kw, its extra expense that I don't "need" and I'll be thinking the whole time while setting it up that I should have gone with option 1. I know I'll be happy with this option when its setup and running, its only the initial setup frustration and cost as an issue.  3. Get a Walbro BKS1001 brushless pump. This is the fu*k it I'm already going PWM, might as well go full retard. This option just seems better in every way, with the only downside being cost. But I don't know much about this pump so I could be wrong.  Happy to get everyone's thoughts before I go digging around in the fuel tank again. 
    • Doing it this weekend. For sure this time. Thank you forum gods.  And im running map sensor now with the haltech. Still have the AFMs attached to the mushroom dome shaped air filter things
    • Actually, it is probably pretty legit. I mean, it's still woke feminazi bullshit academia, but you would have to agree that it is very likely that there would be a correlation between wanting a loud exhaust and scoring at the unpleasant end of the scales for dark triad personality traits. The fact that they found it didn't correlate with narcissism and only with psychopathy and sadism definitely shows that the loud exhaust thing is more of a "f**k you" than a "look at me", and I reckon that rings pretty close to most of the dickheads who take it to the extreme. Remember, this is correlation with tendency to be closer to one end of a personality trait scale than the other end. Of course someone who is at the literal opposite end of the psychopathy scale is going to be so considerate of others that they wouldn't even think about wanting to upset anyone with a loud exhaust. So the finding isn't that "you are a psychopath". Just that you score more towards that end of the scale than someone who doesn't like loud exhausts (on average, not necessarily even for specific individuals).
    • Blitz ER34 at some point hopefully, should be allowed in Gr3 if they do.
    • Stock R33 boost control, with the exhaust, and FMIC done, will boost creep. There is no tuning around it if it is the factory boost solenoid.   If it has an aftermarket electronic boost controller, the settings/mapping can be altered in it.   Oil could be anything as mentioned, however did it ever do it before you did the turbo swap? How much and how often did you drive the car before the swap?   I'm hinging on too much oil supply, or it's not draining properly.   To check, pull the air outlet off the turbo. Is it full of oil? Drop the exhaust at the turbo, does it appears to be oiled/coked? Now pull turbo and check the exhaust manifold, does it appears oiled and coked the same way?   Secondly, the PCV could even be stuffed / not functioning properly and will cause blowing of blue smoke.
×
×
  • Create New...