Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm no pro but I'll wade in on this having had some limited experience with used tyres vs new.

In my example I'm comparing VERY old RE55s 235 R17s that only had a few mm above the tread indicators left and had been heat cycled MANY times to brand new RS-Rs, which aren't an R-Comp.

The RS-Rs have gone a touch faster, despite not being a proper R-Comp but that could also be down to improvements in the car and driving, the improvement is less than 1sec.

That said, the second hand, used up, never ever use these (I was told) RE55s that cost me $200 were awesome to learn on and had a ton of grip and having been heat cycled a few times which hardens the compound, lasted better than I thought they would, I did 5 or so events on those.

I've read heaps about the tyre rejuvenator stuff as well which seems to help to some extent to if outright grip is the goal.

As Duncan said, for general track days, testing the car, bedding in parts, etc I think you'll be fine (so long as the price reflects the age, no point paying brand new prices for old stock just as a matter of principle).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...