Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

lol yeah I've heard WA and Queensland are a bit loose :P

sweet I'll check that out, but I recon it maybe cheaper to find an original air box, than somehow enclosing the pod(which is kind of next to the intercooler behind the bumper).

just a question, how much did the blueslip cost you????

i got quoted 130 bucks for a blue slip as it is an import...... i just got my girlfriends audi quattro done and that only cost 57 bucks.. why is the import more expensive?

btw everyone, had a proper look under the bonnet and took of some stuff off so I could see around the area better.

I found the bov DOES recirculate back into the uncompressed side of the turbo just after the air flow meter which is standard.....

the psssshhhh noise was coming out of the pod filter :P haha

So now I know that they can not ping me on the BOV anymore as it spec to standard recirculating not atmospheric, just have to add in the standard intake box to stop the noise :(

Also I found a standard R32 RB20DET air intake box for $10 on trademe.co.nz and with the exchange rate make that approx $8 yeaha! :D

Edited by niknac

thats an import complience plate, not a mod plate.

It tells you when & who compilied the car to meet australian standards when it was imported.

Edited by wedge_r34gtr
  • 3 weeks later...

right so, I have the standard air intake box (bearly fits) and the standard recirculating Valve fitted. Car booked in tomorrow at mechanics for blue slip. fingers crossed.

thought it was funny, I mentioned to the mechanic of the things I had fitted as he had asked and then he was like yeah sweet as and then when ya get home you can change them back....... lol

lol you are not going to believe this...

So I rock up to the Mechanics on Clark Road in Neutral Bay and the first thing he says is "have you fixed the oil leak". I'm like ummmm what oil leak??? he pops the bonnet and wipes his hand on the backside of the engine and is hand has some dirty/grease stuff on it, no way oily at all. I said to him dude thats not an oil leak thats a dirty engine the car is parked in the same spot and there are NO oil drips on the concrete so your full of shit.

He then processed to tell me he was not going to do it as he would be accountable for everything on the car if I got pulled over by the cops. I said well IF in that case I did get pulled over and the cops for some strange reason even wanted to ever talk to you, you could just say it was all standard to begin with(but why would they want to speak to you anyway! maybe if the car was in an accident).

I was pleading with the guy (I don't know why, guess I just wanted it done) to do the blue slip but still refused. So drove up the road to another place in North Sydney called Quixspede and booked it in there. I noticed they had some performance cars in their garage so maybe these dudes will know what they are doing..

hopefully.

stock bov is better anyway....

Stock ECU expects recirculation and as such runs better with recirc bov.

also stock bov is EASLIY good enough for most cars... i've been running 300+rwkw for years on mine (most it has seen is about 28psi)

also atmo bovs sound like aids

might as well keep it, save the cop hastle and have a car that runs better

oh really? the aftermarket BOV was recirculating back into the uncompressed side of the intake anyway, but yeah guess that could be a goer then if it can handle.

sooo the story continues:

The guys at Quixspede did the blue slip and said all I had to do was get a battery clamp (has cable ties holding it atm), get covers/lenses for the side indicators(the ones behind the wheel arch, as the light blub is exposed) and raise the back of the car 20mm as the lowest point on the car is at 80mm. I feel this is greatQ pretty easy to fix to get the car back on the road.

Today I fitted after-market side indicators, still waiting on delivery on the battery clamp and adjusted the adjusties. But ran into an issue, I did the back right side fine(wheel nuts were hard to get off) I couldn't for the life of me get 1 of the wheel nuts on the left side off :( going to a mechanic tomorrow morning to see if their air compressor gun can get it off. I actually bent my wheel brace trying to get it off. Adjusting them were easy, I was going to buy a c spanner but found a screw driver and hammer the better/cheaper option :P

gallery_97492_5076_515279.jpggallery_97492_5076_509683.jpg

Edited by niknac

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...